anth's MKIV Golf 2.0 daily driver

[anth]

Hey all, throwin up my 'build' on vwgolf :) This is my frustratingly slow 2.0 MK4 that drives me to work and back in comfort. All the text is copied from my blog so just ignore anything that sounds out of place or cheesy :lol:

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Well here it is in full view, my MKIV Golf 2.0 (or 2.Slow as they’re affectionately known). This is my daily driver, and has been for a few months ever since my last daily was totalled in spectacular fashion as I sat idle in a freeway traffic jam. It gets me from A to B in quiet comfort while the Datsun awaits patiently in the garage for its next outing.

http://buildthreads.files.wordpress.com/2009/11/dsc_00231.jpg

So why is it a “project car” all of a sudden considering I’ve owned it for a while? Well, recently the temptation to buy a different car was starting to rear its head. I was browsing the online classifieds daily, looking at Toyota Aristo’s, S14 200sx’s, and even VTiR Civic’s. I was looking purely out of boredom for what I was driving. The Golf is such a great car, but fails to keep my attention, I just don’t like standard cars unless they’re factory built sports models.

http://buildthreads.files.wordpress.com/2009/11/dsc_0024.jpg

So what was the solution? If I was to keep it, I had to modify it! How could I sell a perfectly good Golf without bothering to try to make it even partially resemble the crazy examples I ogle over day after day on vwvortex? It just wouldn’t be fair, all those great ideas would have been a complete waste. Additionally, the car get’s great mileage, is extremely comfortable inside, solidly built, and has 5-door practicality. Ever tried fitting a flat-packed chair and TV cabinet into an S15 Silvia at Ikea? I have! And somehow it all managed to fit, which doesn’t really assist my argument…uhh, anyway…

http://buildthreads.files.wordpress.com/2009/11/dsc_0020.jpg?w=242&h=361 http://buildthreads.files.wordpress.com/2009/11/dsc_0025.jpg?w=242&h=361

The plans for the car aren’t anything nearly as outlandish as the MKIV’s we’re all used to seeing around the internet. I want to keep it factory and clean, with a few small touches. Here’s a run-down of what I have in mind.

- Window tint
- Coilovers
- OEM style 18″ wheels
- All-red tail lights
- Designer fabric gear shift boot
- Partial de-badge
- Cut & polish
- Interior steam clean
- Blackened internal headlight surrounds

http://buildthreads.files.wordpress.com/2009/11/dsc_00261.jpg

Those are my main plans. Pretty minor in essence, but they should all come together to make a nice and neat daily with a bit of style. Some of them aren’t really mods, but will improve the overall condition of the car. The tint is essential as our summer is just starting here, and the Australian sun will shine straight through my crystal clear windows.

http://buildthreads.files.wordpress.com/2009/11/dsc_0019.jpg

As you can see, I don’t give it the same amount of attention as the Datsun gets, which is reflected in the cleanliness – or lack thereof – of the car. Once it’s squatting over some nice rims it will be privileged enough to warrant a bath & regular upkeep. Don’t get me wrong, all of my cars get any mechanical issues sorted immediately, regardless of appearance, but only the nice ones get washed!

http://buildthreads.files.wordpress.com/2009/11/dsc_0017.jpg

Keep checking back periodically for updates as the car takes shape. Wheels, coilovers & window tint are first on the list and will be completed before the years end. The rest will trickle slowly to keep me occupied without wasting too much money.

[anth]

Finally got some tint installed. I've never actually had any of my cars tinted, as most of them just came with some light tinting already on the windows, or I always thought the money could be better spent on other modifications. But these windows were so clear that I really had no choice, and now that it's been done I'm really happy with the results. Dark windows really set off a dark car. (Modern cars only, I'm not a fan of tint on older cars)

http://buildthreads.files.wordpress.com/2009/11/dsc01708.jpg?w=497&h=372
http://buildthreads.files.wordpress.com/2009/11/dsc01706.jpg?w=497&h=372
http://buildthreads.files.wordpress.com/2009/11/dsc01707.jpg?w=497&h=372
http://buildthreads.files.wordpress.com/2009/11/dsc01705.jpg?w=497&h=372

Don't ask me what percentage it is because I don't know. I had to get a friend to drop the car off as I had double booked appointments so I couldn't do it myself, and the tint installer just applied whatever he felt would work with the car.

Coilovers and wheels will be on very soon (and a wash too!) :banana:

[anth]

update time!

Wheel gap is bad…
http://buildthreads.files.wordpress.com/2009/12/dsc_0025.jpg

Time to get the Golf’s suspension sorted! After browsing around VW Watercooled (http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/newforum/upload/index.php) researching my options, I seemed to keep being pointed into the direction of one person, Robin (mailto:HottuningAus@adam.com.au). Robin (mailto:HottuningAus@adam.com.au) is the Australian distributor of HotTuning Coilovers, and the more I looked into it, the more I thought that these would be perfectly suited to my application. The Golf is soley my daily driver, and will never see a racetrack, so I was after something street-friendly at a reasonable price that would still enable me to enjoy the odd twisty road. My main goal was height adjustability, as I’ve given up on spring/shock combo a long time ago after never being able to get my old cars to sit at the height I wanted.

Once I contacted Robin, he was a huge help and answered all of my annoying questions without hesitation. This was especially appreciated as my knowledge of VW’s is not as advanced as say, Nissans. Here’s a run-down on the coilovers from the manufacturer:


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Coilover Specifications:
HOTTUNING coilovers can be raised or lowered, from 20mm to 120mm. All coilover systems include high grade aluminum pillow mounts further enhancing overall control. CNC Wound SAE 9254 Racing Springs are used which were found to be the longest lasting spring on the market that showed no tendencies to sag. Spring and damper rates that yield exceptional handling characteristics coupled with unsurpassed street drivability are used. Extensive Research And Development Went In To Choosing Precisely Matched Spring & Damper Rates Specific To Each Application. The Result Is Outstanding Ride Quality & Incredible Handling Characteristics

So whether you are looking for a great track set up or you need a suspension that adapts to public roads, you have found the right coilover. HOTTUNING , Designed and manufactured for customers who demand the very best!

Summary:
* Superb Overall Control.
* Height can be adjusted without affecting shock stroke length.
* Both Track Abuse As Well As Road Imperfections.
* CNC Wound SAE 9254 Super High Quality Springs.
* Kit includes: 2 front full coilovers, 2 rear full coilovers.
* Sport setup (F=12K – 672 ft/lbs & R=18K 1008 ft/lbs)

2 Year manufacturers warranty

The best part was when I found out the price was only $800 AUD delivered thanks to our strong dollar at the moment (compared to last year at the time of the economic crash). I also opted to purchase the swaybar drop-links that are also available, as I knew I’d run into clearance problems after lowering the front end. Just as my luck would have it, they’ve now been reduced to $750 INCLUDING drop links until the end of December. Oh well, you win some, you lose some.

So a few day’s after making my purchase, I had another nice package turn up at work. I waited until I had a free Saturday to install everything.
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Here is all the goodies on show. Front coilovers, drop-links, c-spanner, rear perches, rear springs, and rear shocks.
http://buildthreads.files.wordpress.com/2009/12/dsc_0030.jpg

Before installing everything, I thought it would be a good idea to add some sort of protection to the collars, to try to combat the dirt & general under-car conditions that they’ll be faced with. I went to my local hardware store and picked up a grease-based lubricating spray.
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I dismantled everything and sprayed all 4 collars, hopefully this will make it easier to adjust them after they’ve been exposed to the elements.
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Time to get this party started I guess. I used this write-up (http://www.nclh.org/car/coilover_howto/) as a guide and found it very helpful. I didn’t take pictures every step of the way for two reasons, firstly that write-up has all the pictures you need, and secondly it was a stinking hot day, I had hay-fever, and the beginning of the job was a pain to do.

Front standard suspension. This side was a real pain to remove, make sure you have spring compressors and a big hammer, as the strut assembly is too long to remove otherwise. Once I got past this strut, the rest was fairly easy in comparison.
http://buildthreads.files.wordpress.com/2009/12/dsc_0036.jpg

This is what I used as the spreader tool to open up the strut assembly away from where it sits inside the LCA. It’s actually an assembly tool from a trampoline set!
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Adjustable drop-links installed
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Now’s probably a good time to work out how the hell you’re going to get to work on Monday, and ask yourself if it’s really a good idea to have two potentially useless cars if things don’t go to plan.
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[anth]

Fronts installed
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Time to attack the other end…
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All done…(if only it was that easy in real life)
http://buildthreads.files.wordpress.com/2009/12/dsc_0053.jpg

The finished product…
http://buildthreads.files.wordpress.com/2009/12/dsc_0054.jpg

“It’s not low!” I hear you say. Well, yeah, I have no interest in having a car slammed on stock wheels and hubcaps, it just doesn’t do it for me, so I’ll be waiting until I get the wheels before it gets closer to mother earth.

After driving around for few km’s, I noticed something wasn’t right. I had a loud knocking sound coming from the drivers side suspension, which would get worse as the size of the bumps on the road increased, it was really nasty. I jumped straight back on VW Watercooled (http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/newforum/upload/index.php) and started asking questions. The resounding answer was that my strut bushes & bearings were probably stuffed, and should have been replaced when I installed the coilovers. “Snowy” was kind enough to spoon-feed me all the information I needed, sending me a link that took me straight to the required products available in a package from ECS Tuning.

A week or so later, and I was ready to go…
http://buildthreads.files.wordpress.com/2009/12/dsc_0055.jpg

The kit comes with a pair of new strut bushes, bearings, and top nuts.
http://buildthreads.files.wordpress.com/2009/12/dsc_0057.jpg

Old vs New, you can see how they deteriorate over time and end up squashed
http://buildthreads.files.wordpress.com/2009/12/dsc_0061.jpg

Here you can see how the shaft is not centered within the strut mount, and is leaning towards the centre of the car.
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Here it is after the new mounts were installed, nice and centered…
http://buildthreads.files.wordpress.com/2009/12/dsc_0063.jpg

Another by-product of the new bushes is that it removed the majority of the gap between the upper strut tops and the strut towers in the engine bay. This is a common side-effect when lowering these cars, and for the most part it is generally accepted as ‘one of those things’.

This is the gap with the old bushing…
http://buildthreads.files.wordpress.com/2009/12/dsc_0066.jpg

And this is how much it’s reduced when the new one is fitted…
http://buildthreads.files.wordpress.com/2009/12/dsc_0065.jpg

So after all that, the car was fixed and riding smooth. I found the HotTuning coilovers to be very comfortable for street driving, if only a tad bouncy, but that is to be expected from any sports suspension set up. Keep in mind though, to get the car to sit at an almost factory ride height, the collars are wound up quite high and subsequently the springs are a bit pre-loaded. They also eliminated a lot of body roll and made the car actually fun to drive, exactly what I wanted.

Once the wheels & tyres roll in, I’ll be attacking the collars with the c-spanner to get this thing looking decent!

Thanks again to Robin (mailto:HottuningAus@adam.com.au) @ HotTuning and the members of VW Watercooled (http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/newforum/upload/index.php) for all their help.

[anth]

So now that the coilovers were installed, I was just waiting for my wheels & tyres to arrive. After debating over the usual Audi & VW OEM styled wheels that are available, I eventually settled on some MKIV R32 Aristo replicas in 18×8 +35 with 225/40/18 tyres. Nothing drastic, no poke or noticeable stretch, but good enough to look nice and still be practical.
http://buildthreads.files.wordpress.com/2009/12/dsc_0011.jpg

At the same time as fitting the wheels I adjusted the coilovers downwards. First up was the front end, stock wheels off…
http://buildthreads.files.wordpress.com/2009/12/dsc_0012.jpg

While I was lowering the front, I adjusted the drop links to their highest setting, thinking that is the correct procedure for enhancing swaybar clearance when the car is lowered. NOTE: THIS IS INCORRECT!
http://buildthreads.files.wordpress.com/2009/12/dsc_0013.jpg

I experienced intense rubbing with this setup after going for a test drive and quickly did some online research to try to rectify the issue. I learnt that the drop links are meant to be made as short as possible, not the other way around. It isn’t the top of the swaybar that hits the driveshaft as one would first think, it’s actually the very end of the swaybar (where it bolts to the upper end of the drop link) that rubs on the FRONT of the driveshaft. So making the drop link smaller brings the tip of the swaybar forward, clearing the driveshaft. It pays to research these things first, I guess.
http://buildthreads.files.wordpress.com/2009/12/dsc_0014.jpg

Measuring how low to go so I can make both sides the same, I think I settled on 1.5″ or thereabouts.

Trying the wheel on for the first time. The width+offset of the wheel made the inside of the rim sit very close to the spring perches on the coilovers, only a few mm clearance. 5mm spacers would probably be a good idea but I haven’t had any rubbing issues to date so I’ve left it as-is.
http://buildthreads.files.wordpress.com/2009/12/dsc_0016.jpg

Now onto the back. Those tiny hubcaps and balloon tyres look so awful after seeing the 18s on the front.
http://buildthreads.files.wordpress.com/2009/12/dsc_0017.jpg

I unbolted the lower shock mount on both sides to drop the whole beam down. Then it was simply a case of grabbing the springs with my hands and physically spinning them downwards with the collars as one unit.
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All done!
http://buildthreads.files.wordpress.com/2009/12/dsc_0019.jpg

This is when I took the car for its first drive and heard/felt the driveshaft rubbing on the swaybar. This image shows what I mean…
http://buildthreads.files.wordpress.com/2009/12/dsc_0021.jpg

So as previously mentioned, I did some research and then re-adjusted them to be as short as possible, which fixed everything.
http://buildthreads.files.wordpress.com/2009/12/dsc_0024.jpg

A final shot in better light, the car is still filthy…
http://buildthreads.files.wordpress.com/2009/12/dsc_00251.jpg

And a shot of the depth of the spokes, this is why I like Aristo’s compared to the usual aftermarket ‘fin’ wheels on the market.
http://buildthreads.files.wordpress.com/2009/12/dsc_00521.jpg

I have to say, the car actually rides BETTER now that it’s been lowered. When it was at the almost factory height, I was still experiencing a few knocks and bumps even after I installed the new bushes & bearings on the front struts. I think the coilovers were wound up so high that they were just too preloaded and it was putting everything under added stress. It’s all good now though, and the best part is there is no rubbing and no speedbump dramas, its the perfect compromise of practicality and looks.

Next stop, car wash!

[Justin Fox]

Hey I was hoping you've done more since then?!

- Designer fabric gear shift boot

Moar!

[10d]

Anth, nice built. This is a proper diary. Nicely done. Taste!

[SUGA]

haha Brilliant write up, lol'ed a few times reading your commentaries.

Be sure to post some CLEAN pics soon! :)

[anth]

thanks guys. It's been washed a few times since then :lol: I just have to get around to taking some nice pic's. I'm having a problem with the swaybar ends rubbing on the drivers side driveshaft at full lock, already raised it 5mm which stopped it for a while and I'm really not keen on raising it again. If anything I want to go lower! The only way around it is to disconnect or cut the swaybar out which doesn't sound too appealing, or buy an aftermarket swaybar for around $300 + fitting, which also doesn't sound too appealing since it's not a performance car and that money could be spent elsewhere.

Justin I've looked for some gucci fabric to use as a gear boot since it will match my tan interior but I can't find it anywhere :(

[rayray086]

Win! Shame about the not-able-to-go-lower part though, what a pain in the ass!

[Frenchie]

Liking your project and write up anth.....

[anth]

hey ray! thanks frenchie :)

Seriously considering disconnecting the swaybar and just cable tieing it out of the way to see how it drives...then going for more low and start sussing out spacers

[rayray086]

Seriously considering disconnecting the swaybar and just cable tieing it out of the way

Ghetto! I love it!

[anth]

well I figure it's better than cutting it out, plus I can bolt it back up if I choose to go back to stock when the time comes to sell.

[anth]

Disclaimer: I take no responsibility for the level of boredom you reach while reading this update. Not much really happens, you have been warned!

This update is well overdue, and so was a bath for the Golf! Now that the wheels were on and the suspension lowered down, it was time to clean up all the odds and ends that were bugging me since I bought it.

First on the list was the random goodies on the windscreen, which was my registration sticker, a few roadside-assist stickers, and two (not one, but two!) tollway beeper holders.
http://www.build-threads.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/DSC_0027.jpg

My weapon of choice, a brand new razor blade. I have a box of new blades in the garage so I always grab a fresh one when I need to scrape anything off a car. The newer, the better.
http://www.build-threads.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/DSC_0028.jpg

To take the tollway beeper holders off, I soften up the glue with a heat-gun and then they just come right off. Would you believe me if I told you that a few years ago when I first bought my S15, someone I knew wanted to use a chisel and a hammer to remove one of these from the windscreen? Crazy, huh! I gave him the same friendly answer that you probably would have.
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Goo!
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All clean
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The pile of undesirables. I timed this cleanup well, as my registration was due and I had a new sticker to attach to the car in a much better position. I'm pretty OCD with my registration stickers, they have to be in the right spot or I start to breathe heavily.
http://www.build-threads.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/DSC_0039.jpg

More random stickers and residue around the car.
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http://www.build-threads.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/DSC_0033.jpg

Be gone!
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I even found an old parking ticket that had partly fallen down behind the dashboard. Can you see it?
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There it is. March 2009, sheesh!
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I also swapped my front & rear plates around, as the front one was all battered, and the rear one was in better condition but hidden in a covered frame. So by swapping them around, the dodgy one is hidden behind plastic while the straight one is bolted to the front where it can shine like a broadway star.
http://www.build-threads.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/DSC_0049.jpg

And finally, after all that exciting activity, it got a bath. It was that dirty I felt like I had to wash it twice. Now all it needs is some nice photos which I hope to get onto one day soon.
http://www.build-threads.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/DSC_0067.jpg

That, ladies and gentlemen, is how you fluff up an uneventful day into a 13 picture update.

[rayray086]

Good work anth, after all, less is more ;)

The last pic at the car-wash really emphasises the height where the sideskirts are! Swaybar upgrade STAT!

[Frenchie]

Looking good Anth !!

[anth]

thanks guys.

Haha come on Ray, everyone knows that car wash floors are sunken in the middle for water drainage which makes the car look higher...stop picking on my 4WD :(

[Justin Fox]

Awesome. I also have a thingy holder I can't get off with my hands. Got to heat it up but too lazy to do it. Car is looking so good, making me re-consider a MKIV!

[anth]

We could have done a swap + cash deal for the ED :P

Currently pricing up Whiteline swaybars, Autobarn is a big client of ours at work, gonna see what kind of deal I can get from head office

[Justin Fox]

We could have done a swap + cash deal for the ED :P Currently pricing up Whiteline swaybars, Autobarn is a big client of ours at work, gonna see what kind of deal I can get from head office
LOL now you tell me. PS: Get ready to get the hammer out to fit those Whiteline sways! :lol:

[anth]

how come? Are they known to not fit?

See the other issue is that it's not a simple bolt-in job like on a RWD car, the swaybars go through the subframe so it's a big job and something I'll probably have to pay someone to do, so there's more wasted money. This is why I'm still thinking about just disconnecting the damn thing. I'll guess I'll wait and see what kind of price I can get them for first

[Justin Fox]

I've only bought Whiteline gear once. Not only did it perform badly (I tried my best to get my money back and they would have none of it) but my mechanic at the time had a very hard time getting them to fit. They were basically off and had to be forced to fit. I've heard this from other people too and recently when I needed some sway bars for my V35 my current mechanic told me to get anything BUT Whiteline. He's had customers with Whiteline sways that didn't line up at all making it very hard to get them on.

There are heaps of people who do support their products and continue to use them though.

[rayray086]

how come? Are they known to not fit?

See the other issue is that it's not a simple bolt-in job like on a RWD car, the swaybars go through the subframe so it's a big job and something I'll probably have to pay someone to do, so there's more wasted money. This is why I'm still thinking about just disconnecting the damn thing. I'll guess I'll wait and see what kind of price I can get them for first

I think it's very similar to the VR6 subframe set-up. If so, just gotta undo the subframe bolt sitting furthest to the rear while having a jack supporting the subframe (engine brace on the top wouldn't hurt either). Then undo the swaybar mount bolts and you should be able to pull it out. FYI, I had a hard time putting back the stock swaybar in whilst the subframe was off the car haha. Have some WD40 ready and like Justin said, a mallet. It's not hard pulling the swaybar out, it's just putting it back in. Maybe pull it out for a few weeks, if you don't mind it then don't bother with putting another one in. Just don't put a rear one in later on, or else you'll getting some unwanted snap oversteer!

[shida]

love your build!!! And what a great read... hehe makes me laugh!!! :lol:

[anth]

thanks shida, I try to make the thread entertaining since the mods are fairly basic hehe

someone's ordering a swaybar today...moar low coming soon! ended up going with a whiteline since I got it at about half price through work (Autobarn is a client of ours, head-office contacts ftw!), they go under the driveshaft instead of over them like the stock ones, should do the trick.

[Pharkus]

thanks shida, I try to make the thread entertaining since the mods are fairly basic hehe

Awesome work Anth, be good to see you at the GTG organised for VIC later in March (go to the events page *wink)

Definitely doesn't seem like a fairly "basic" mod. I am still trying to put my OEM LED's together after the lense switch!!! Great effort and the car definitely looks a lot nicer for the work put in.

Did you end up doing a full detail of the car when washing or just give it a good once over at the local wash place?

[anth]

hey Pharkus, thanks for the kind words. I just checked the events thread, my sisters bday is on the 31st so I'll have to see if she's doing anything on the 28th first, otherwise I'd love to come down!
As for washing, I've never really been into detailing, I wish I was, but I'm too impatient. I signed up to Detail Addiction a few years ago hoping it would get me interested, but it's just not for me. I just do a simple wash/chamois. Don't get the wrong idea from the car wash image though, I use a glove/mit and my own soap, I never use the brush! haha But this car could definitely do with a cut & polish, that's for sure.

[Pharkus]

You'll find that putting in say 2 hours tops to apply a synthetic wax should make it easier for you to maintain the car in great nick. Waxing your car makes it easier to use a high pressure hose to get rid of dirt build up during the week. I see that the car is parked undercover but not in a garage, used as a daily. Therefore, it should only really cost you 2 hours of work every 3 months or so if you use a synthetic wax (e.g. Meguiars NXT 2.0).

Let me know if you would like any help here. I rather enjoy doing that stuff =)

Then you can also incorporate into your build thread a dairy as to how well that holds up.

[M4RK0]

Just a wash and wax master!!!

Cheers!

[scotty1991]

Designer fabric you say? Visit an asian country, such as thailand, and get some from one of the rip off tailors

[funkymonkey]

lol just read this thread. I think I'm gonna have to get all highlander on you "there can be only one". Like seriously... Nissan/Datsun project cars and Golf 2.0 daily? Good thing I got rid of my old datto 240K or it'd have been really embarrassing.

Which side of melb are you on? As you are a gent of superior tastes I'm gonna have to try n catch up with you sometime.

Also, I'm just about to put through a massive order from ECS Tuning (http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Golf_IV--2.0/) in the US, if you wanna grab anything and chuck it in the pile and save on postage.

[anth]

funny you say that scotty, missus is off to thailand next month, thinking of getting her to bring me back some fabric, hope she doesn't end up on "Border Security" lol

shan: haha maybe we're the bizarro version of each other?
http://netanya.files.wordpress.com/2008/09/seinfeld10.jpg
I'm from the northern north/eastern subs, greensborough...bit far from dandy! This car hasn't really received any love since the last update, the swaybar is in and it has ridden me of all the rubbing issues which was a relief, but I still haven't had a chance to lower it down some more. Might have to have a look around that ECS site shan, all I really want is some spacers + a stubby antenna, I'll let you know if I want to grab anything :)

[Capercat]

Hi anth,

I recently had the left side strut bushes & bearings replaced (MK4) during my 60K service, although the right side looks just like your old ones! The left strut bushes were replaced with OEM (not quite sure whether ECS have anything over OEM?)

Anyhow I would like to replace the right bushes & bearings myself, saves me going back to the mechanic. Is it a garage job? if so what's involved?

[anth]

i did mine myself, but it depends how confident you are on the tools. do you have a rattle gun/impact wrench? if not, you might need special tools to be able to torque the nut that holds the stut tops to the main shafts, making sure it doesnt spin while you do it. i just used a rattle gun andblasted it nice and tight