Car detailing tips and tricks

[DaveXR8]

Hi All :D

Some of you may know that I operate a Car Detailing business in Sydney and I love helping car owners and enthusiasts alike with inquiries, tips and methods on how to detail a car properly with the correct products.

Here's a blog site that I have been working on for a while.

Car Detailing Sydney (http://www.cardetailingsydney.com.au)

It provides car owners and enthusiasts with necessary information to detail and clean a car properly.

At the moment it contains basic information on "How To's" and some other important information.

I will be adding more topics and information as time goes by and will try get pictures and videos done.

Cheers
Dave

[Justin Fox]

Sharing is caring, good stuff Dave!

[DaveXR8]

Enclosed are some helpful tips and correct procedures that you can follow to ensure that your cars protection and finish will give you long term results.

Correct Washing Methods

*Note- It is not recommended that the vehicle is washed using a brush system as this will cause major damage to the vehicles paint by inducing swirls and scratches. If you need to use a self serve car wash then it is highly recommended that you bring your own bucket/s, mitt and solution.

1. Wash your vehicle in a well shaded area away from dust and trees. If you do not have any shelter then wash your vehicle when the temperature is cooler such as early in the morning or late afternoon.
2. Using the 2 bucket method, mix up one bucket with your favourite car shampoo and fill the other with just plain water.
3. Hose off the vehicle to loosen up any dirt or contaminants.
4. Using a lambs wool or microfibre wash mitt, dunk the mitt into the car wash solution and begin to wash vehicle from the top down. Make sure that the mitt is rinsed off after each panel in the bucket of plain water. This will ensure that no dirt is trapped in the mitt which can cause swirling and scratches to the vehicle.
5. Use a different mitt or sponge to clean the wheels.
6. Once the whole vehicle has been washed with the solution and mitt, Rinse off from top to bottom. This ensures that all the foam and dirt runs off the vehicle.
7. Use a large Microfibre waffle weave towel to dry the vehicle from the top down. Move the towel in a side to side motion as this will minimise the chances of inducing any swirls and scratches.
8. Use a separate smaller waffle weave towel or chamois to dry wheels and door jambs.

Cleaning with Quick Detailers

Quick detailers are formulated with polymer cleaning agents which help remove fresh surface contaminants without the need for water or shampoo.
Fresh contaminants such as tree sap, bird droppings, bug residue and light dust can be removed by doing the following.
1. Spray the surface/contaminant with the Quick Detailer and let it penetrate for a few seconds.
2. Using a microfibre towel, wipe off the contaminant until it is fully removed.
3. Spray the cleaned area again with the QD and buff to a shine with a different microfibre towel.
Quick detailers also provide temporary protection. That is why it is recommended that it is applied to the surface once it has been cleaned.

Interior Fabric and leather Cleaning/Maintenance

*Note- It is not recommended that solvent based products are used to clean the interior fabric, vinyl or leather of your vehicle as solvents can break down and dry out the material it is applied to thus reducing any protection which has been applied to it.

1. Vacuum the interior fabric and carpets regularly making sure you get in-between the stitchings and folds.
2. Leather and vinyl should be wiped down regularly with a damp warm microfibre towel.
3. If any stains or spills occur on fabric or leather then it should be soaked then dried with a microfibre towel. Mild steam cleaning is recommended for stubborn stains.

[DaveXR8]

De-waxing Driven Multi-surface Cleaner (MSC)
Recommended every 6-12 months.
Ensure that vehicle is clean and not in direct sunlight. While car is wet, spray diluted MSC onto vehicle and allow to sit for a few minutes. Wash with mitt and car wash solution then dry.

Oxidation & Contaminant Removal Reflect Clay, Clay magic Blue
Recommended every 2-3 months depending on exposure to contaminants.
Make sure vehicle is clean. Work a 2x2ft area at a time. Use car wash solution or quick detailer as a lubricant and mist it onto surface. Place clay on lubricated area and without any pressure sweep it in a side to side motion until surface feels smooth. Check and knead clay after each panel(more often if surface is highly contaminated). Remember to keep surface lubricated so clay doesn’t marr the paint.

Severe paint defects, oxidation & fading(Compounding) -Prima Cut
Recommended for machine application only and requires a second step with a lighter abrasive polish. Use with wool or LC foam cutting pad.
Call for further instructions

Swirls & scratches (medium abrasive) -Prima Swirl -Driven Finish Restorer [U]
Recommended for hand and machine application.
By hand Recommended for use with LC Orange or White/gold hand pad. Work product in a 2x2ft area until desired results are reached or until product is broken down. Wipe off residue with m/f towel.
By machine Recommended for use with LC orange, green or white pad. Call for further instructions.

Finishing polish/ Paint cleaner [U]-Prima Finish (light abrasive) - Prima Amigo (glaze)
Prima finish- removes fine paint imperfections and hazing. Suited for softer paints.
By hand Recommended for use with LC white/gold hand pad. Work product in a 2x2ft area until desired results are reach or until product is broken down. Wipe off residue with m/f towel.
By machine Recommended for use with LC white or grey pad. Call for further instructions.

Prima Amigo- Fills in light surface imperfections and cleans the remains of other prep steps.
By hand Apply to vehicle using LC white/gold hand pad working a 2x2ft area at a time. Buff off residue with m/f towel.
By machine recommended for use with LC Grey pad. Call for further instructions.

Sealants & waxes -Prima Epic-Prima -Banana Gloss -Victoria waxes
-Driven Auto polish
By hand Recommended to apply with LC white/gold hand pad. Allow to haze for specified amount of time(stated on bottle) and buff off residue with m/f towel.
By machine Recommended to apply with LC Red pad and random orbital (RO). Buff off residue with m/f towel. Call for further instructions.

Spray waxes & Quick Detailers -Prima Hydro -Prima Slick -Driven Quick spray
Ensure that vehicle is clean and free of contaminants.
Spray/mist product on to surface and buff with a plush m/f towel. Repeat for extra gloss and slickness.

Interior leather & vinyl -Prima Nero -Driven VRL protectant
Apply product using a foam applicator pad. Work product until it’s broken down or disappears. Wipe off any residue with a m/f towel.

[SUGA]

Really good tips there Dave! Thanks for sharing your wealth of knowledge and look forward to seeing your detailing magic on SUGA!!! :D

[Cam]

Thanks Dave.
:)

[Frenchie]

Amazing how much love you can put into car...Great info.

I must say that I really enjoy and take the time to clean my car, I clean my R every 3 weeks inside/out and every 6 months I strip my was wax/sealant with a clay bar and repeat most steps mentioned above...Labour of love !

[Pharkus]

Amazing how much love you can put into car...Great info.

I must say that I really enjoy and take the time to clean my car, I clean my R every 3 weeks inside/out and every 6 months I strip my was wax/sealant with a clay bar and repeat most steps mentioned above...Labour of love !

Love is when your wife goes overseas with her sister then you get all the time in the world to detail your car.

Last Melbourne Cup day I spent at minimum 20hours putting 2 coats of wax on my car. First time in 2 years since I bought new that I have clayed it. I think that on 5 year anniversary I will take to a professional to get rid of the swirl marks that VW dealership thought I wanted as an option. Otherwise it will be a schedule of:

Every 2-3 weeks, rinse and quick detail with Swissvax Nanoexpress.
Every 2 months, another coat of Swissvax Concourso
Every 4-5 months full strip off of wax then redo from Swissvax Cleaner Fluid -> 2 coats of Swissvax Concourso

I can say I didn't sleep Friday after work till Saturday morning at 10am when I finished the wash, clay, cleaner fluid and first coat. Then second coat took about the same amount of time Monday before Melbourne cup day. On the weekend before I took the car out to the park to get some sun as suggested and buffed it up some more.

End of Feb now and water still beads.

How are you finding the Prima line of products? My mate is using this on his Mazda6 MPS and he seems satisfied with it. Of course I tell him it doesn't smell like passionfruit though.

[dopey]

For those of you living in Apartment blocks, I strongly recommend you try Optimum No Rinse shampoo. It's a godsend for those of us that can't hose down the car as we please! Coupled with a proper Lambswool wash mit, soft chamois and a waffle weave drying towel it always equals great results.

My number 1 car care tip: Never, EVER EVER EVER go near those foaming brushes at the "Car Lovers" self service places.

[Pharkus]

For those of you living in Apartment blocks, I strongly recommend you try Optimum No Rinse shampoo. It's a godsend for those of us that can't hose down the car as we please! Coupled with a proper Lambswool wash mit, soft chamois and a waffle weave drying towel it always equals great results.

My number 1 car care tip: Never, EVER EVER EVER go near those foaming brushes at the "Car Lovers" self service places.

Those brushes are barely even good enough for my wheels. I saw an Aston Martin guy using one (probably more money than sense) but held my tongue.

[Frenchie]

:eek: should confiscate his Aston M for doing crap like that !

[10d]

Yeah, I second that.
Cruelty!

[Pharkus]

This was last Sunday at BP. I was showing my lil bro how to rinse his brand spanking new Mazda 3 (metallic white). It was two very young guys, got them to rev the crap out of a cold engine (I assume). The sound was awesome! I asked them what they used to wax the car, the guy showed me some spray bottle with blue liquid in it (looked like windex).

After applying of Meguiars NXT 2.0 (yeah I know, cheap but it's a Mazda3) on a white car, not sure that I would actually buy one now. Was very keen before, but found that its very hard to tell where you have or have not applied the wax. Might just have to get him some Dodo juice purple haze or something that goes on a different colour.

[CaptainColen]

I still wouldn't be comfortable taking an orbital polisher to my paint, leave that to the professionals.

[Pharkus]

I still wouldn't be comfortable taking an orbital polisher to my paint, leave that to the professionals.

I have some swirl marks. They annoy me greatly. But like you I am hesitant to try the orbital polisher route. After 5 years I might consider taking the car to a professional to remove them. The thinking is that there is only so much clear coat on the paint before you actually start eroding away at the paint itself. If anyone here wants to correct me if my understanding is wrong...

[DaveXR8]

RO's are actually safer than you think.

Orbitals dont have as much force and generate heat like what a rotary does so it wont remove as much clear or paint.
The reason for this is because it does not rotate at high speeds like what a rotary does and because it orbits side to side as well it covers more surface area so it makes it hard to generate heat.


I have some swirl marks. They annoy me greatly. But like you I am hesitant to try the orbital polisher route. After 5 years I might consider taking the car to a professional to remove them. The thinking is that there is only so much clear coat on the paint before you actually start eroding away at the paint itself. If anyone here wants to correct me if my understanding is wrong...

Pharkus
I would actually recommend doing a light machine polish once every 12 months or so to remove or reduce any swirls that you have on your paint. By doing this you will only need to use fine abrasive polishes which will take a very minimal amount of clear off.

If you plan to leave it for a number of years and the paint defects get heavier and more severe then you would be looking at a minimum Stage 3 polish to correct the paint. With this, heavier compounds and polishes are used to level the paint out more and will actually take more clear off than if you maintained it and did light polishes every so often.

[Pharkus]

I see! Good opportunity then to start looking for a pro to do the first "light" polish then.

The R32 is now just on 2.5 years and therefore should be due for a good once over soon. After the first clay and application of wax it felt smooth enough for me not to investigate this further. Of course, getting rid of the swirl marks would be preferable.

It's a pity you are all the way up in Sydney, otherwise I would swing by for your assistance.

[DaveXR8]

I see! Good opportunity then to start looking for a pro to do the first "light" polish then.

The R32 is now just on 2.5 years and therefore should be due for a good once over soon. After the first clay and application of wax it felt smooth enough for me not to investigate this further. Of course, getting rid of the swirl marks would be preferable.

It's a pity you are all the way up in Sydney, otherwise I would swing by for your assistance.

Yeah. I would be more than happy to help if you were in Sydney.

If you want someone good to do some polishing I would highly recommend Mario from Eurogloss Prestige.
He is a bit pricey but his work is right up there.
He mainly deals with high end prestige vehicles.

[kaoticice]

One question regarding Random Orbitals. I have a bosch PEX400AE unit with pads from finalinspections.com.au in conjunction with monzerna compounds.. No matter how much i tried, it seems that i wasn't able to delete all the scratches and swirls.. After i finish, with the polishing i also notice webbing marks on the bonnet where I concentrated mostly on. Major scratches are gone though, and gloss levels are amazing after polishing with the machine.
I know its hard to describe, but how much pressure do I need to apply during polishing?

[DaveXR8]

One question regarding Random Orbitals. I have a bosch PEX400AE unit with pads from finalinspections.com.au in conjunction with monzerna compounds.. No matter how much i tried, it seems that i wasn't able to delete all the scratches and swirls.. After i finish, with the polishing i also notice webbing marks on the bonnet where I concentrated mostly on. Major scratches are gone though, and gloss levels are amazing after polishing with the machine.
I know its hard to describe, but how much pressure do I need to apply during polishing?

Which Menzerna polishes are you using?

Just something to remember. RO's are mainly used to enhance a paints finish and remove light swirls and scratches.
Because an RO's dont generate heat like what a rotary does, it will not be able to cut back on the paint as much.
You can keep going at it but it will take a lot of passes to get the results your after. Plus VW paints are pretty solid so that might be another reason as well.

[bigwill]

if someone was to purchase a rotary what would be your recommendation than dave? ive used RO quite a lot but if i purchase the DAS6 and it doesnt correct the paint work i'll be surely disappointed so i have weigh up my options.

[Pharkus]

Don't make me go out and buy an RO!

Already bought 4 pairs of shoes and looking at a tripod already...and that's just this week!

[bigwill]

get an RO! lol

[Frenchie]

Man you are on spending spree !! come on you need to buy something for the car :)

[kaoticice]

Which Menzerna polishes are you using?

Just something to remember. RO's are mainly used to enhance a paints finish and remove light swirls and scratches.
Because an RO's dont generate heat like what a rotary does, it will not be able to cut back on the paint as much.
You can keep going at it but it will take a lot of passes to get the results your after. Plus VW paints are pretty solid so that might be another reason as well.

atm im using the 106ff and po91L.. Im also suspecting the pads that i've gotten from finalsinpection, i might try some edge pads next time..

[DaveXR8]

if someone was to purchase a rotary what would be your recommendation than dave? ive used RO quite a lot but if i purchase the DAS6 and it doesnt correct the paint work i'll be surely disappointed so i have weigh up my options.

I use a Makita 9227cb rotary. I use it at least a couple times a week and have had it polishing for up to 11 continuous hours.

I think these retail for around the $400.00 mark.

If you do decide to get a rotary then make sure you get some practice on an old panel to get use to the feel of it as its totally different to an RO.

[DaveXR8]

atm im using the 106ff and po91L.. Im also suspecting the pads that i've gotten from finalsinpection, i might try some edge pads next time..


If your finishing off with 106ff then it shouldnt leave any webbing unless the webbing is actually heavier swirls which have been reduced??

Also, make sure your pads and towels are clean. I change these over after every 3-4 panels and wash them after each use.

[Capercat]

Can Zanio Z-CS be used to seal Z-6?

I know Z-CS is a sealant and should be used as a final stage, but I would like to capture the gloss of Z-6 by sealing it with Z-CS in other words sealing a quick detailer.

[DaveXR8]

Can Zanio Z-CS be used to seal Z-6?

I know Z-CS is a sealant and should be used as a final stage, but I would like to capture the gloss of Z-6 by sealing it with Z-CS in other words sealing a quick detailer.

It could possibly work as they are from the same brand and in most cases will have similar ingredients which will be compaitble.

I have used QD's before in between layering waxes and sealants to help give a more gloss and slickness.

If you are going to do this I would apply the sealant first and let it cure for 24 hours before using the quick detailer over it unless you are using the flash curer which you will only need to wait an hour or so.
Then apply another layer of sealant after the QD.

When you are applying the QD, make sure you buff it in as much as possible with a plush MF towel. This will polish up the paint more and enhance the gloss.

Some detailers have done a similar thing called "spit shining" but with chilled distilled water instead.

Hope this helps.

Cheers
Dave

[Capercat]

Thanks Dave

[Pharkus]

I've been told, apply wax. Let rest for 10-15 mins, buff off. Then let car rest for 24 hours at least. Sit it in the sun for a bit after this, buff after it's had some time to bake (only thing is beware of debris/dust covering car whilst you do this). After the car is then back in the garage and cooled down, I then either apply a second coat of wax or a layer of QD on top to seal it in. Of course this is with the carnaubra wax as opposed to a synthetic.

Check our my member's car diary post for performance of the wax after over 100 days. Water is still beading nicely.

[bigwill]

anyone have any advice on cleaning the engine bay?
been advised run the engine while hosing it down? is this correct?
is our engine bays well covered or do we need to add any additional covers to electronics to be safe?
thanks

[DaveXR8]

anyone have any advice on cleaning the engine bay?
been advised run the engine while hosing it down? is this correct?
is our engine bays well covered or do we need to add any additional covers to electronics to be safe?
thanks

Most of the electricals are covered up so your pretty safe.

If you want to be extra cautious then wrap up any electrical plugs with aluminum foil or glad wrap. This will make sure that no water seeps into the electriccals.

Leave your engine off when degreasing as the heat will cause the chemicals to dry up and leave marks on any plastics, metals etc.

Its always best to clean your engine bay while its cold or warm to touch.

[Justin Fox]

See you tomorrow Dave! Just rock up any time. :)

[Paolo]

my arqray exhaust tips have turned from a nice silver/chromish to bronze! any advice? Christophe told me something awhile back but i forget what it was so i bought this mothers mag & aluminum polish, is this sufficient to return my tips to its former glory?

[bigwill]

Most of the electricals are covered up so your pretty safe.

If you want to be extra cautious then wrap up any electrical plugs with aluminum foil or glad wrap. This will make sure that no water seeps into the electriccals.

Leave your engine off when degreasing as the heat will cause the chemicals to dry up and leave marks on any plastics, metals etc.

Its always best to clean your engine bay while its cold or warm to touch.

thanks dave, great advice!

[bigwill]

my arqray exhaust tips have turned from a nice silver/chromish to bronze! any advice? Christophe told me something awhile back but i forget what it was so i bought this mothers mag & aluminum polish, is this sufficient to return my tips to its former glory?

most metal polishes such as mothers mag and aluminium polish will be suffice, but clean the tip thoroughly first. I used SRP for my exhaust and it came up relatively well.

[Paolo]

thanks Will! ill try it out when the weather is better. Whats the procedure you use to do it thou? im noob with this type of stuff

[bigwill]

paolo, my process is pretty much using a tooth brush to clean inside the tips with some fine steel wool to clean the inside and out of the tips than apply SRP leave to haze for a bit than use a microfibre cloth.

[DaveXR8]

See you tomorrow Dave! Just rock up any time. :)

Ill be there between 8:30-9am depending on how traffic is.
See you then.

[DaveXR8]

my arqray exhaust tips have turned from a nice silver/chromish to bronze! any advice? Christophe told me something awhile back but i forget what it was so i bought this mothers mag & aluminum polish, is this sufficient to return my tips to its former glory?

Any form of metal polish should clean it up. You could even use a medium abrasive paint polish to restore it if it isnt too discoloured.

[Capercat]

Dave, is it worth waxing a silver car? I've for a few years now have just resorted to claying once a year and applying a few coats of Z-CS every couple of months and it always looks great. Will a wax make much of a difference on silver??

[dopey]

Dave, is it worth waxing a silver car? I've for a few years now have just resorted to claying once a year and applying a few coats of Z-CS every couple of months and it always looks great. Will a wax make much of a difference on silver??

For what it's worth - I put some cheap wax (Poorboy's Natty Red Wax) over the top of the Zaino Z2pro/ZFX on our Reflex Silver Golf and it made a definite difference, added depth and a wetter look. Silver paint can be a bit hit and miss but I found that layers had a positive effect in my case.

[DaveXR8]

Dave, is it worth waxing a silver car? I've for a few years now have just resorted to claying once a year and applying a few coats of Z-CS every couple of months and it always looks great. Will a wax make much of a difference on silver??

Yeah definitely worth waxing a car.
With silver I would proberly recommend a sealant over a wax as when applying an LSP to silver its hard to get any depth of colour out of it which waxes usually provide and the short term durability of it means you will have to apply it more regularly.

The sealant will provide you with extra gloss and will last at least 3 times longer than a normal wax would.

If you like using Zaino then the z2 would be the go.
Some people have had up to 8 months protection when layering Z2.

[kaoticice]

Hey Dave.. I've been using Z2 for a while now. But i found that it's really really difficult to buff out the residue. To a point that i needed to wet my cloth just to get rid of the streaks. Is this normal? Could it be that i'm applying too much?
thanks

[Pharkus]

Hey Dave.. I've been using Z2 for a while now. But i found that it's really really difficult to buff out the residue. To a point that i needed to wet my cloth just to get rid of the streaks. Is this normal? Could it be that i'm applying too much?
thanks

How much are you putting on the car? It should be a nice even coat put on as thinly as possible. I made the same mistake applying my wax and can testify that more is definitely not better. Are you also making sure you do the test to see if it has dried? Run your finger over part of the car, if it smudges it still needs some more time before you buff off. Dave can correct me here of course, he's the expert.

[dopey]

Z2 should be applied so thin it's almost invisible. It takes a little while to get the hang of, but I eventually figured out the right method. Make sure you put one very thin layer, let it sit, buff off, then put another very thin layer, buff again, repeat until you've run out of energy or product :)

[kaoticice]

I use a microfiber applicator pad, and I always thought the pads are absorbing the liquid more than it is applying it to the car, so i responded by applying more. :( I guess i'm applying too much... thx for the reply guys.

[Pharkus]

I use a microfiber applicator pad, and I always thought the pads are absorbing the liquid more than it is applying it to the car, so i responded by applying more. :( I guess i'm applying too much... thx for the reply guys.

I don't have that problem any more. Hand application FTW!

[DaveXR8]

Like the others have said.

The thinner the application the better because only a certain amount of product is actually going to cure to the surface. All the rest will be buffed off and product gone to waste.

When applying the product you should only be able to see a light clear haze. If its white and cloudy then theres too much on there.

If you want more protection then just keep layering the LSP but make sure you allow at least 12 hours curing time between layers.

Foam and MF pads will always absorb in the LSP so every now and then just push the pad down on the panel to release the product out :D

[bam]

Hi Dave,

new around here and will have my new Tornado Red GTI arriving at the end of May. What should i be doing and using to protect it right from the start. I have read your articles on detailing which are very good. Are there any products which are better suited to a red car which will be garaged at night and parked outside whilst at work during the day?

Any tips or advice greatly appreciated. Cheers Bam:D

[nath_mk6]

another TR, nice >D

Dave will definately be able to recommend some paint protection products etc

he made my car better than new with his detail the other day.

congrats on the purchase btw

[DaveXR8]

Hi Dave,

new around here and will have my new Tornado Red GTI arriving at the end of May. What should i be doing and using to protect it right from the start. I have read your articles on detailing which are very good. Are there any products which are better suited to a red car which will be garaged at night and parked outside whilst at work during the day?

Any tips or advice greatly appreciated. Cheers Bam:D

Hi Bam,

Congrats on the purchase :D

If your after protection then the best thing to do is use a sealant on your car. Sealants have better durability over waxes.

Even thought its a new car I would still recommend claying the car first and using a paint cleanser to ensure that any contaminants or waxes which might still be on from the dealership are removed.
This will ensure proper bondage of the sealant to the paint.

If you want more depth out of the red then you can apply a paste wax over the top of the sealant once it has cured (roughly after 24 hours).

There are quite a few paint cleaner/sealant combos available Such as Prima Amigo & Epic, Toughseal, Duragloss 105 & 601 and so on.

Just depends which brand tickles your fancy:lol:

Hope this helps mate.

Cheers
Dave

[transporter]

damn...and i've been waxing my car all this time! where can you get this...sealant? autoshop? cheers

[DaveXR8]

damn...and i've been waxing my car all this time! where can you get this...sealant? autoshop? cheers

For better ones its best to source them from online detailing supplies stores such as my own, Wax it, Car care products, ZAS and so on.

[Pharkus]

So any real difference other than durability of sealants vs waxes? I think I have chosen correctly going with a wax as my car is always garaged.

I have heard great things about the Prima range and my mate currently uses that on his MPS6.

[DaveXR8]

So any real difference other than durability of sealants vs waxes? I think I have chosen correctly going with a wax as my car is always garaged.

I have heard great things about the Prima range and my mate currently uses that on his MPS6.

Well main difference besides durability is the finish that it gives.

Sealants tend to give a clearer glossier finish which is good for light colours and metallics where as waxes give more depth so which I like to use on darker solid colours.

[Tensixty6]

I'll be doing a tyre rotation over Easter. It's always a good opportunity to give the insides of the wheels a good going over. Previously, I've just used a mild polish or wax product. Just wondering if there's anything special out there that might do a better job?

[DaveXR8]

I'll be doing a tyre rotation over Easter. It's always a good opportunity to give the insides of the wheels a good going over. Previously, I've just used a mild polish or wax product. Just wondering if there's anything special out there that might do a better job?

Clay it mate! :D

Clay will help remove any tough brake dust which has bonded heavily to the rims and especially behind the spokes.

Wash, clay and seal and you cant go wrong.

[Pharkus]

I'll be doing a tyre rotation over Easter. It's always a good opportunity to give the insides of the wheels a good going over. Previously, I've just used a mild polish or wax product. Just wondering if there's anything special out there that might do a better job?

Chris, let me know if you want a hand waxing the wheels. Happy to pop around and lend a hand.

[Tensixty6]

Thanks John.

[Pharkus]

Thanks John.

The only thing I have planned atm is potentially plumber coming to our house in the morning on Saturday to quote for new guttering then a quick trip to Reece for some new fiittings for taps. Otherwise this weekend should be a cruisy do nothing kind of rest up. Just give me a call as you like.

[Capercat]

Clay it mate! :D

Clay will help remove any tough brake dust which has bonded heavily to the rims and especially behind the spokes.

Wash, clay and seal and you cant go wrong.

I've always wanted to do this, but it takes patience. I guess Easter is a good opportunity. Was thinking of sealing it with Z-CS because I have plenty of the stuff.

[saad]

Doesnt really take very long at all. Shouldn't take more than 20mins to clay the whole car, the trick is to use plenty of lubricant.

[DaveXR8]

Doesnt really take very long at all. Shouldn't take more than 20mins to clay the whole car, the trick is to use plenty of lubricant.

Thats right.

If the car is usually kept indoors and is well maintained then it shouldnt take too long.
The most contaminated areas would be the horizontal panels and the rear bar.

In saying that, I have spent up to 3 hours claying a heavily contaminated car! :eek:

[derek]

hit the car's bonnett with one round of scratchX, no luck scratches still in a certain area.
hit it again twice with poorboys SSR2 ... no luck again ... scratches are still there

any suggestions? :(

[transporter]

damnnn...never actually waxed my wheels before...might give it a go this easter!

[Byza]

whats the recommendation for wax on rims?

thought this would be a good idea when they are off and clean... is there is wax sealant for rims?

[dopey]

whats the recommendation for wax on rims?

thought this would be a good idea when they are off and clean... is there is wax sealant for rims?

http://www.carcareproducts.com.au/product/nanolex/rim_sealant_kit

I used this, works fairly well but VW brake pads are still the devil.

[stevie]

I'd recommend Poorboys wheel sealant

http://waxit.com.au/proddetail.asp?prod=PB0018&cat=29

[DaveXR8]

Since people are making recommendations on wheel waxes...I recommend Prima Wheel Armour (http://www.reflecteffect.com.au/products.php?cat=cleaners&prodId=c3) ^_^

Easy on/off application. Can be used to clean off light brake dust and protect in the 1 application.

[saad]

hit the car's bonnett with one round of scratchX, no luck scratches still in a certain area.
hit it again twice with poorboys SSR2 ... no luck again ... scratches are still there

any suggestions? :(

You really need to use a machine if your doing it by hand. If you're using a machine, try a more aggressive pad

[saad]

In terms of wax, I use Zaino, topped off with Swissvax. UNbelievable great shine.

11 coats of Zaino, 3 of swissvax, which gets topped up every month or 2

[kaoticice]

In terms of wax, I use Zaino, topped off with Swissvax. UNbelievable great shine.

11 coats of Zaino, 3 of swissvax, which gets topped up every month or 2

Just a question.. when ur applying multiple coats, do you buff it off completely then re-apply?

[saad]

Yep. Apply it, let it dry, then buff off, then repeat.

[Pharkus]

Yep. Apply it, let it dry, then buff off, then repeat.

I like to keep mine pretty clean Saad but that is a little bit over the top. There is only so much wax that will bond firstly with your paint and secondly to any additional layer that you apply. Perhaps it would be better reapplying more often rather than multilayering as you are.

[DaveXR8]

In terms of wax, I use Zaino, topped off with Swissvax. UNbelievable great shine.

11 coats of Zaino, 3 of swissvax, which gets topped up every month or 2

There are many people which like to layer on multiple coats of sealants and waxes in the one go but one thing you need to remember is that with many layers of LSP brings lots of build up so you will need to strip back all the LSP every few months to ensure that when you are detailing and waxing again that your not just putting it over the old layers.

[saad]

I like to keep mine pretty clean Saad but that is a little bit over the top. There is only so much wax that will bond firstly with your paint and secondly to any additional layer that you apply. Perhaps it would be better reapplying more often rather than multilayering as you are.

The first time you multilayer. This is after removing all the old wax, and having a perfectly clean and prepped surface, to ensure perfect bonding. Once you have done the multiple layers, you have an excellent to build upon. This is prob best to do once a year.

[kaoticice]

Wait.. im not getting this. So its probably best to apply your first layer properly and buff off completely, but on your second layer I can just add layer without buffing it?
sorri im retarted :(

[saad]

You have to buff it off completely everytime you add a new layer.

[kaoticice]

Oh. ok sweet.. thx for the tips guys :)
Dat's one hard work for doing 11 layers :P

[DaveXR8]

Paint Contaminants

The main causes of paint contaminants comes from industrial fallout, iron filings or small metal particles, brake dust, sand, salt and so on.
When these contaminants bond to your vehicles paint it can cause the paint to feel rough and overtime. If not attended to immediately with a paint decontamination process it can start to oxidize and overtime will form rust in the paint.

http://i414.photobucket.com/albums/pp229/Reflect_Effect/SUGA%20R32%20Golf/DSCN0278.jpg

A good way to test if your paint is contaminated is to place your hand in a plastic shopping or sandwich bag and gently run your fingers over the painted surfaces.
If you can feel that it is rough and gritty then it is an obvious sign that there are paint contaminants present on your vehicle.

Removing paint contaminants
It is not recommended that you apply a wax or sealant over a contaminated painted surface as all you are doing is locking these contaminants in and allowing it to penetrate further into the paint as time goes by.

Inexperienced detailers will say that compounding the paint will remove the contaminants. This is true but its not the right way to go about it because what it is doing is removing paint to get rid of the contaminants.
Remember, a vehicle only has a limited amount of paint or clear coat and once you have cut through it the only way to fix it is to get it resprayed.
Heavy compounding will also induce swirls so you will need to follow it up with a finer polish to remove these and refine the paint.

The best and safest way to remove paint contaminants is with a ?Detailing Clay Bar? or also known as an overspray bar.
There are many different brands and grades of clay bars available but all serve the same purpose.
Clay bars ?pull out? the contaminants from the paint so its not actually using any form of abrasive to cut back on it.
This will extend the life of your paint as you are not removing any layers and thinning it out.

How to clay (http://www.cardetailingtipsandtricks.com/cardetailingsydney/category/washing_paint_preparation/claying)

Cheers
Dave

[saad]

Dave, what tyre dressing do you use? Saw the detail to Anthony's cars and the others at Scuderia, and loved the finish on the tyres!

[kaoticice]

I clayed my car every once a month. The picture u showed above is like a typical daily life for white cars. It's soo frustrating to see those contaminants....

[DaveXR8]

Dave, what tyre dressing do you use? Saw the detail to Anthony's cars and the others at Scuderia, and loved the finish on the tyres!

I use my Clean Plus Tire Dressing (http://www.reflecteffect.com.au/products.php?cat=exteriordressings&prodId=ed2). I spray it on and spread it with an old foam pad.
This helps it spread and dry evenly.


I clayed my car every once a month. The picture u showed above is like a typical daily life for white cars. It's soo frustrating to see those contaminants....
Yeah because its white it stands out a lot more just like how dust stands out on shiny black cars.

[Cam]

I clayed my car every once a month. The picture u showed above is like a typical daily life for white cars. It's soo frustrating to see those contaminants....

So true Ed, I've got a few specks here and there of tar from roadworks. So hard to avoid.
I'm going to invest in a clay bar.

[Androo]

Tar hardly sticks to my car, it only started to become a pain 11 months after being clay bared and waxed. I had a stage 1 enhancement done to it and now it's back to being new. 3 months into it and nothing gets stuck at all still.

Washed once a month, finished with Duragloss aquawax. And will continue it as it seems to never fail.

I might be wrong, but that car in your pic Dave looks like a corolla rear. Those things are worse than the Golfs, dirt builds up on the hatchback and as soon as it rains it all comes out and sticks to the paint. It bakes on by the time it's cleaned. All hatches do it, they go very rough on the rear compared to any other panel. I put extra aquawax at the back, it helps it not to stick.

[Pharkus]

@ Androo I believe that's SUGA's arse in that pic.

[Androo]

@ Androo I believe that's SUGA's arse in that pic.

Sir your correct, I cleaned my girlfriends Corolla the other week and it was a nightmare. I remember it looked similar to that. Pain in the arse.

[G-rig]

I clayed my car every once a month. The picture u showed above is like a typical daily life for white cars. It's soo frustrating to see those contaminants....

Once a month is very regular, good way to spend a day I guess. Every 6 months is fine for mine but depends where you drive and park.

[DaveXR8]

@ Androo I believe that's SUGA's arse in that pic.

Yep. Thats SUGA's rear end. One of the down sides of living near a beach lol....


Once a month is very regular, good way to spend a day I guess. Every 6 months is fine for mine but depends where you drive and park.

If you can do it once a month then its good. I use to do mine once every 3 months but lately have been a bit slack and only have had enough time to do regular washes :(

[Pharkus]

Once a month is very regular, good way to spend a day I guess. Every 6 months is fine for mine but depends where you drive and park.

I have a obsessive compulsive disorder. Car is rinsed at least once every 2nd week at the local servo. And quick detailer applied every third to fourth week.

Sunday night ritual is usually to detail then put the car cover on to prevent dust settling on top during the week.

If this makes sense, the cleaner you keep your car, the easier it is to keep clean.

[DaveXR8]

If this makes sense, the cleaner you keep your car, the easier it is to keep clean.

Totally agree with you there Pharkus!

[G-rig]

If you can do it once a month then its good. I use to do mine once every 3 months but lately have been a bit slack and only have had enough time to do regular washes :(

Every 3 months would be good, I just find you have to do it all immediately after washing and the whole process takes a fair while, but important before you get any dust on the car.

Woudl it strip the wax or that only lasts for a few weeks anyway? some spray wax claims to last 3-6 months.

ps. I've got some autogard paint protection stuff on my car (got it free from the person who cancelled the order but would never buy it) and wasn't sure if i should clay/polish & wax as normal??



If this makes sense, the cleaner you keep your car, the easier it is to keep clean.

Yep, that sounds plausible :D.

[Pharkus]

I would personally only do a full strip every 2 years. I am still a bit anxious when I clay/apply cleaner fluid in the preparation stage that there is unwarranted friction and chance to scratch. My car is kept clean enough for the duration so that is reasonable for me. For a fully daily driven car time periods may vary I suppose.

Wheels are still my worst enemy. I shined them up for that shoot with Terrence and even though I wiped most of the excess off I can see where some of it has still managed to make its way onto my wheels :mad:
I will apply some NXT 2.0 next time I get a chance to do a full clean of my wheels.

[Androo]

I have a obsessive compulsive disorder. Car is rinsed at least once every 2nd week at the local servo. And quick detailer applied every third to fourth week.

Sunday night ritual is usually to detail then put the car cover on to prevent dust settling on top during the week.

If this makes sense, the cleaner you keep your car, the easier it is to keep clean.

So you put the car cover on, do you actually ever wash the car other than apply quick detailer?

I make the first weekend in the month my cleaning car day, it takes me approx 5 hours to do it all. Inside/outside/rims everything. Put's a smile on my face. I get it detailed once year and the wax lasts me nearly a full 12 months, last year it didn't last 12 months as i stopped putting aquawax after washes (ran out and was lazy).

[DaveXR8]

If the surface isnt heavily contaminated then you should be pretty safe but its always good practice to at least use a paint cleaner or fine abrasive polish after claying in case any marring has occurred.

[Pharkus]

So you put the car cover on, do you actually ever wash the car other than apply quick detailer?

I make the first weekend in the month my cleaning car day, it takes me approx 5 hours to do it all. Inside/outside/rims everything. Put's a smile on my face. I get it detailed once year and the wax lasts me nearly a full 12 months, last year it didn't last 12 months as i stopped putting aquawax after washes (ran out and was lazy).

I don't "wash" the car per se. We have water restrictions down here in Victoria, still! Saturate at the servo with streak free finish setting, then rinse with high pressure hose, then a rinse with MF glove and dry with a waffle weave. Then a coat of QD if I feel the surface needs it. The car cover I refer to is a piece of white cotton cloth (which is washed each month) that I "drape" over the top of the car (in the garage). Pretty much like tucking it in at night for bed =).

[saad]

I use QD to help dry the car, as it prevents waterspots and adds a nice just waxed finish

[DaveXR8]

Here's a question that a member from the JDMST forum asked recently and thought it might be helpful on here as well.


While the threads still current and were on the topic;

Are you limited to the amount of times you can do paint correction if your essentially cutting back layers of paint?

And if that's so, how do you know when to call it quits and say if i do it one more time your cars going to be bare metal? :P

Yes you are limited to how many times you are able to cut back on paint but this all depends on how heavy or light you go at it each time.

Modern day paints usually consist of 3 layers.
- Primer
- Base/Colour coat
- Clear coat

When your doing a paint correction your essentially "leveling" out these paint defects by removing layers of paint at a time. "ONLY ON THE CLEAR COAT" unless you are working in single stage paints where no clear is applied (acrylic paints).
If you go past the clear coat then the colour coat is exposed and you will notice this because there will be less gloss and the colour will have come onto your polishing pad.

The heavier the product and pad you use the more clear its going to take off.
How much paint it takes off depends on the paint itself whether it is a hard or soft paint.

Soft paints are easier to correct as more paint gets taken off in 1 pass than it would on a vehicle with hard paint but needs to be finished off very lightly to prevent holograms and buffer trails left behind. Most of the time you will find that an RO will need to be used especially on dark cars. The most time consuming part is buffing off the residue because even it its done with the wrong towel it can re-induce swirls and webbing.

Hard paints take longer to penetrate but are not as prone to leaving holograms and trails behind if you at least finish off with a fine polishing pad and polish.


The total paint thickness (primer/colour/clear) on a new car usually measures up to 120-140 microns (1000microns in 1mm) of paint and about 25% of this is Clear Coat. This will vary between different makes of vehicles.

Whenever Im doing a paint correction of some sort I will always measure it with a paint thickness gauge. Any paint thickness that is around the 80-90 micron mark is borderline and I wouldnt think of attempting any correction. At the most I would only do a fine polish.

Its a bit more trickier with cars that have been resprayed as some panel shops will wetsand and polish the car or panel after its been painted to flatten out the orange peel so it is really hard to tell how much clear is actually on there.

[kaoticice]

^ thx for the info dave.

Another question for detailers, can any1 recommend me products for maintaining leather? Bro's R32 leather is just starting to get tired.

[Pharkus]

Zaino Z9 and Z10 for leather is what I have used and am happy with the finish. Smells brand new too when done.

[G-rig]

Zaino Z9 and Z10.

+1, great stuff.

[saad]

+2

[DaveXR8]

Prima Nourish or Driven VRL.

I like Nourish as it gives you a natural leather smell :D

[kaoticice]

sweet.. thx lads! So basically I just need a cleaner and a conditioner!

[G-rig]

Also helps getting a hand pocket applicator like these ones from Final Inspection (http://www.finalinspection.com.au/store/product_info.php?cPath=25&products_id=79)

[Pharkus]

sweet.. thx lads! So basically I just need a cleaner and a conditioner!

If you use a cleaner you will most likely need a conditioner afterwards. Unless it's one that does both. It's the conditioner that maintains your leather's suppleness and keeps it in top nick.

[vanboy]

So after owning my first black car after the previous 2 white ones, I suddenly see what all the fuss is about regarding swirls.

Thinking of getting the Toughseal kit, thinking of claying, pretreating and sealing for starters.
Quick question, will the Stage 1 pre treatment help to remove the swirls before I seal, or will I need to look at getting a different product for that job?

[kaoticice]

So after owning my first black car after the previous 2 white ones, I suddenly see what all the fuss is about regarding swirls.

Thinking of getting the Toughseal kit, thinking of claying, pretreating and sealing for starters.
Quick question, will the Stage 1 pre treatment help to remove the swirls before I seal, or will I need to look at getting a different product for that job?

hhahaha, yeah mate i know how u feel. Swirls and scratches are easily identifiable on black cars especially under direct sun. I'm not too sure about good products, but a stage 1 treatment involves a machine polishing, usually with a lighter abrasive compounds. Stage 1 should take out most if not all of the swirls and light scratches. Seal is usually applied after polishing.

Good luck :)

[vanboy]

Thanks Ed. Just to clarify, what I meant to ask was about this one specific product, just wondering if this would help with swirls, or I'd need to use other things like you said?

Sorry i'm very very new to car detailing. Just used to a normal spray and wash.

Step 1 Toughseal Pre-Treatment - (Step not stage sorry)
http://www.toughseal.com.au/paint-protection-product-range.php

[kaoticice]

Ahh.. right i get it.. Those pre-paint treatment are mainly used to prepare the surface for either a seal or a wax. Some do eliminate minor swirls and scratch by hiding it. So it's not necessarily eliminating it. If you're looking at eliminating the scratch and swirls, u must use an abrasive polishing compound, preferably by a machine.
In my opinion though, it's probably best to get a pro to polish the car once a year (depending on the situation, a stage 1 could be all that's necessary) and use those pre-paint treatment once in a while.

[DaveXR8]

The Toughseal pre-treatment is a cleaner/bonding agent so it will remove any old wax or light contamiantns and also aid in the bonding of the step 2 sealant to the panel.

Sorry about the brief description as Im using another computer as mine is stuffed and in for repairs.

You can call me on 0416047826 if you need some more details. Otherwise I will put up some more info once I get my computer back.

Cheers
Dave

[vanboy]

Thanks for the info Dave. I'll try the pre-treatment first to see how that goes. Cheers!

[DaveXR8]

Thanks for the info Dave. I'll try the pre-treatment first to see how that goes. Cheers!


The Toughseal pre-treatment and sealant comes together when you purchase it as these 2 are designed to work together and are not really compatible with other products.
Usually I get about 3-4 good applications from 1 kit and each application lasts on average 12 months.

[vanboy]

Yeah I plan to buy the kit. Just going to try the pretreatment to get rid of contaminants I meant. Thanks again Dave!

[Pharkus]

Anyone know of products to get rid of waxes/sealant that have inadvertantly been transferred to your front windscreen (including the usual contaminants). In the rain and after a swipe by my wiper blades you can tell that there is a film of "crap" on there. My blades are in pretty good condition for the age of the car, but before I change them I would probably look to giving the windscreen a good clean first.

I have the mothers window cleaning product but that doesn't seem to do very much.

[Androo]

Anyone know of products to get rid of waxes/sealant that have inadvertantly been transferred to your front windscreen (including the usual contaminants). In the rain and after a swipe by my wiper blades you can tell that there is a film of "crap" on there. My blades are in pretty good condition for the age of the car, but before I change them I would probably look to giving the windscreen a good clean first.

I have the mothers window cleaning product but that doesn't seem to do very much.

Try the Durogloss window cleaner, otherwise you can use some dish washing liquid just make sure it doesn't go onto the paint. Maybe use a mist spray?

[Pharkus]

Try the Durogloss window cleaner, otherwise you can use some dish washing liquid just make sure it doesn't go onto the paint. Maybe use a mist spray?

Cool. Morning Fresh concentrate it is then. Will just apply to windscreen then hopefully the rinse off will run down the normal channels and not onto the paint. All else fails I can just reapply wax to the bonnet and front fenders.

[Androo]

Cool. Morning Fresh concentrate it is then. Will just apply to windscreen then hopefully the rinse off will run down the normal channels and not onto the paint. All else fails I can just reapply wax to the bonnet and front fenders.

Lay down some old cloth so it doesn't run down all over the place and spray the windscreen, use an old cloth to wipe it down and then get some fresh water and a microfibre to dry it. IF worse comes to worse there is nothing like some methylated spirits/alcohol wipe on glass. With meth spirits be even more careful and put some on a old cloth and apply directly to the area then again clean it off with fresh water (a few times :P)

[DaveXR8]

A wax and grease remover will take off any wax/sealant on your windscreen but if you wanted to remove some other contaminants the you can use 00 grade or finer steel wool with some soapy water.

[technopato]

G'day Dave,

Great site you got and nice write up too. Got a few issues with the paint on my car. Bought a Tornado Red Mk V GTi in november last year, ex-demo, basically brand spanking new. I got talked into the X-Pack extreme protection pack. Payed $1400 for it at the time, got Paint Protection, Leather Protection and Tints.
Got told if i ever see any issues with the paint or if comtaminants dont wash right off to let them know all covered by "warranty". Anywho to cut a long story short, i started noticing swirls on the paint, my previous Mk 4 black GTi had the same issues.

I wash my car at least once every 3 weeks, using lambswool mit, sometimes use Paint cleaner to get some built up stains off, have never waxed it but would like to start. I always make sure that i wash bird poop or anything stubborn right off right away...

Sorry about the waffle above... Just wanted to give some background.... :) A few quick questions:

1. Should i go back to these X-Pack protection company and try to claim warranty for swirls? Waste of time?
2. Would like to start waxing, but its something i would like to do once every 6 months or more, so what is the simplest process of doing this?
3. What Products are best to use? Does most expensive always constitute the best? ie. Swissvax Concorso, Migliore Competizione ect?
4. Wheels, any specific wheel cleaner you recommend? Whats better, applying a spray on sealant onto the wheels or applying wax?
5. Do you provide a detailing service at all? Cost?

Again sorry about the 750 million questions, to be honest i would rather get all of the above done by a pro but so difficult to find someone who is going to do a good...

thanks for your help!

Pato

[DaveXR8]

Hey Pato,

First of all its good to see your taking good care of your car.

A dealer applied paint protection is basically the same as applying a sealant.
I assume that they would have given you a warranty of 3-5 years but with this warranty there are conditions you need to follow as regular maintenance of your car and most likely a half yearly to annual inspection where you will have to take the car back to them to inspect.

If these things are not followed then warranty will be void.

Now to answer your questions

1. Should i go back to these X-Pack protection company and try to claim warranty for swirls? Waste of time?
Warranties for paint protection only will cover it the product so if the sealant wears out they will reapply it.
They dont cover things such as swirls, scratches or any type of neglect to the paint such as paint cracking if bird poo is left on there too long.

2. Would like to start waxing, but its something i would like to do once every 6 months or more, so what is the simplest process of doing this?
The best thing to do is give your car a full detail first.
This involves the following
- Wash
- Clay
- De-wax (to remove the old protection)
- Paint cleanser (to prepare the surface so the wax/sealant can bond to the paint properly)
or
Abrasive polish to remove swirls if need be
- Application of wax or sealant
Sealants will protect longer than waxes but waxes will give a nice depth to darker colours especially red and black.

3. What Products are best to use? Does most expensive always constitute the best? ie. Swissvax Concorso, Migliore Competizione ect?
When it comes down to detailing, the finish will mainly (about 90%) come down to how well the car has been prepped.
The most expensive products will not always deliver the best results especially if a car isnt prepped properly but you still want to get the right products which will deliver the results your after.
The main advantage of using higher end products is that most of the time it is easier to apply which will make the job a little easier and some products do make waxes to work with specific colours and cars.

4. Wheels, any specific wheel cleaner you recommend? Whats better, applying a spray on sealant onto the wheels or applying wax?
If you are cleaning your wheels regularly then you will only need something like a water based All Purpose Cleaner.
I have the Clean Plus wheel cleaner (http://www.reflecteffect.com.au/products.php?cat=cleaners&prodId=c7) which will you can use to clean and protect your wheels but if you want best protection then get your hands on some proper wheel sealant as a wax will melt under heat.
Im looking at getting some Gtechnique sealant in soon.

5. Do you provide a detailing service at all? Cost?
Yes I do provide detailing services.
Shoot me a PM or give me a buzz with what your after and Ill do up a quote for you.

[Pharkus]

What are you using as a de-waxer Dave? Using Swissvax Concourso...

[DaveXR8]

What are you using as a de-waxer Dave? Using Swissvax Concourso...

If Im de-waxing a car I will foam the car with a 50/50 mix of car shampoo and a water based APC(all purpose cleaner),wash, clay then do a Isopropyl wipe down.

Then Ill use a paint cleaner such as Prima Amigo if im not doing any abrasive polishing before applying the LSP.

[saad]

Wont just claying remove the wax? I find that when I clayed, the LSP would come off very obviously, as you could see when you rinsed the car with water

[Pharkus]

The Swissvax handbook just says to use the cleaner fluid as the step to de-wax (warns not to expose the car after application of cleaner fluid and prior to rewaxing) and to prep the surface for a BRAND NEW coat of wax. I don't claim to know everything so wanted to see what Dave and everyone else was using for this step.

[DaveXR8]

Wont just claying remove the wax? I find that when I clayed, the LSP would come off very obviously, as you could see when you rinsed the car with water

Claying will remove old wax but I like to do an IPA wipe down as well as wax can still get stuck in paint defects such as swirls, scratches and stone chips.
This just ensures that every bit of paint surface is clean.


The Swissvax handbook just says to use the cleaner fluid as the step to de-wax (warns not to expose the car after application of cleaner fluid and prior to rewaxing) and to prep the surface for a BRAND NEW coat of wax. I don't claim to know everything so wanted to see what Dave and everyone else was using for this step.

Yeah once you have used the cleaner fluid you should apply the LSP straight away so no contaminants or other elements can bond to the paint.

One thing you need to make sure when using a LSP over a paint cleanser/glaze is that they are compatible with eachother.

I have tried using Prima Amigo and Glare Micro finish with some other brands of waxes and sealants and some arent compatible with it and will wash off quite quickly.

This might be the same for other brand paint cleaners as well.

[saad]

Do you know if meguiars glaze is ok to be used under Zaino or Swissvax?

[DaveXR8]

Do you know if meguiars glaze is ok to be used under Zaino or Swissvax?

Havent tried the Megs glaze so I cant really say.

Maybe some one might be able to confirm this?

[G-rig]

Just a follow up, I got some mothers plastic polish that worked a treat on the gloss black B-pillars.

Just wondering if it would be ok to use a small amount on the plastic instrument display covers, as this plastic scratches very easily.

Thanks,

[Pharkus]

Yeah once you have used the cleaner fluid you should apply the LSP straight away so no contaminants or other elements can bond to the paint.

One thing you need to make sure when using a LSP over a paint cleanser/glaze is that they are compatible with eachother.

Thanks Dave. I try to keep the same product groups for the prep to LSP step for that reason. Now to find me some Isopropyl wipes thingies =)

[DaveXR8]

Just a follow up, I got some mothers plastic polish that worked a treat on the gloss black B-pillars.

Just wondering if it would be ok to use a small amount on the plastic instrument display covers, as this plastic scratches very easily.

Thanks,

Yeah it should be fine.

If it hasnt left any marks on the gloss black pillars then it should work for the instrument panel but do a test in a small section first to make sure.


Thanks Dave. I try to keep the same product groups for the prep to LSP step for that reason. Now to find me some Isopropyl wipes thingies =)

You can get Isopropyl from Bunnings in a small spray bottle. I think its 100ml only and kept where the thinners and solvents are.

[blaze182]

Love is when your wife goes overseas with her sister then you get all the time in the world to detail your car.

Last Melbourne Cup day I spent at minimum 20hours putting 2 coats of wax on my car. First time in 2 years since I bought new that I have clayed it. I think that on 5 year anniversary I will take to a professional to get rid of the swirl marks that VW dealership thought I wanted as an option. Otherwise it will be a schedule of:

Every 2-3 weeks, rinse and quick detail with Swissvax Nanoexpress.
Every 2 months, another coat of Swissvax Concourso
Every 4-5 months full strip off of wax then redo from Swissvax Cleaner Fluid -> 2 coats of Swissvax Concourso

I can say I didn't sleep Friday after work till Saturday morning at 10am when I finished the wash, clay, cleaner fluid and first coat. Then second coat took about the same amount of time Monday before Melbourne cup day. On the weekend before I took the car out to the park to get some sun as suggested and buffed it up some more.

End of Feb now and water still beads.

How are you finding the Prima line of products? My mate is using this on his Mazda6 MPS and he seems satisfied with it. Of course I tell him it doesn't smell like passionfruit though.

I've only started reading this thread today, so sorry for dredging up the old comment.

But what car detailer in Melbourne were you think of that could remove the swirls?

I have some nasty stuff on my roof which hasn't washed out and I don't know how to remove it safely, so I'd like to find someone who can, lol. Any suggestions?

[Paul_OH]

But what car detailer in Melbourne were you think of that could remove the swirls?

I have some nasty stuff on my roof which hasn't washed out and I don't know how to remove it safely, so I'd like to find someone who can, lol. Any suggestions?

Here you go Ben, one of the best in the country so I believe:
http://www.finalinspection.com.au/auto-detailing/introduction.html

[Pharkus]

I've only started reading this thread today, so sorry for dredging up the old comment.

But what car detailer in Melbourne were you think of that could remove the swirls?

I have some nasty stuff on my roof which hasn't washed out and I don't know how to remove it safely, so I'd like to find someone who can, lol. Any suggestions?

The comment about the swirls is reference to what a professional car detailer may be able to do for your car if it has accumulated swirl marks. Basically, the detailer should be able to polish back the clear coat on your paint to get rid of any light "scratches" and leave the paint work in next to new condition. Of course, my understanding is that there is only so much clear coat that you can do this with, hence my reluctance to do so on an annual basis (someone can correct me if I'm wrong).

[DaveXR8]

I've only started reading this thread today, so sorry for dredging up the old comment.

But what car detailer in Melbourne were you think of that could remove the swirls?

I have some nasty stuff on my roof which hasn't washed out and I don't know how to remove it safely, so I'd like to find someone who can, lol. Any suggestions?\

I would recommend Mario form Eurogloss prestige
http://www.euroglossprestige.com.au/


The comment about the swirls is reference to what a professional car detailer may be able to do for your car if it has accumulated swirl marks. Basically, the detailer should be able to polish back the clear coat on your paint to get rid of any light "scratches" and leave the paint work in next to new condition. Of course, my understanding is that there is only so much clear coat that you can do this with, hence my reluctance to do so on an annual basis (someone can correct me if I'm wrong).

I previously posted some thing in regards to paint thicknesses earlier in this thread which you can find on the link below.

http://www.vwgolf.net.au/showthread.php?149-Car-detailing-tips-and-tricks/page10

It is always better to attend to any paint defects early and then maintain it regularly.

It is alright to do fine polishes annually as this will only take a off a minimal amount of clear.
I would say only a few microns or less each time if its just a fine finishing polish.

[blaze182]

Yeah, BigYellow recommended me to goto Final Inspection, but theres not really much point if I have to drive the car an hr+ each way... by the time I got home with my $250 car wash it'd be dirty again, that and the fact they take 6 hrs to clean it ><

Thanks for the link Dave! They're much closer, about 10 minutes drive to their PO box. Hopefully their address is nearby also, I'll contact them asap.


It wasn't so much swirls that are the problem, I parked under a berry tree and it rained, all the berries fell on my roof and leaked their juices and somehow it's stained the roof a bit. Just think of your car outside on a freezing night, how the roof frosts up, its like that, less noticable, but same look just splattered around the roof.

[dainese]

Yeah, BigYellow recommended me to goto Final Inspection, but theres not really much point if I have to drive the car an hr+ each way... by the time I got home with my $250 car wash it'd be dirty again, that and the fact they take 6 hrs to clean it ><

Thanks for the link Dave! They're much closer, about 10 minutes drive to their PO box. Hopefully their address is nearby also, I'll contact them asap.


It wasn't so much swirls that are the problem, I parked under a berry tree and it rained, all the berries fell on my roof and leaked their juices and somehow it's stained the roof a bit. Just think of your car outside on a freezing night, how the roof frosts up, its like that, less noticable, but same look just splattered around the roof.

its not about the immediate wash and clean factor. when you prep your car surface and use correct products your car will have more than just a clean, it will have a rich deep gloss. and when you protect it with sealant or wax, your car is less likely to get dirty as quickly and less susceptible to foreign matter bonding to the paintwork.
MUST have!

[DaveXR8]

Silicone Based Products in Detailing

Silicone based products are usually used in 2 main areas of detailing, rubbers/tyres and vinyls/trims.

Elements such as UV rays and environmental contaminants can cause rubbers and vinyls to dry, crack and lose its elasticity by breaking down the bonds in the material which hold it all together.

Products such as Armoural were the go to product back in the day but being a silicone based product it does not actually do much for the rubber/vinyl it is applied to besides provide a high gloss oily sheen.

Most silicone products do not contain any UV protectants so it will not prevent the rubbers/vinyls from drying out and discolouring. What it is actually doing is magnifying the UV though its glossy finish thus aiding in the deterioration of the material.

Silicon is also a magnet for dust, pet hair and air borne contaminants. So next time you see a car with shiny dash and trims with plently of dust on it you can guarantee that it has had a silicone based product applied to it.

My personal opinion on silicon products is that it should only be used on tyres as that is the only part of your car you would want looking as black and shiny as possible (besides black paint).
In saying that it is up to the personal preference of the vehicle owner. Some like the shiny look and some prefer the factory new look.

For the matte new look on dash, trims and tyres, you should look for treatment products which are either water or polymer based. Both of these will condition the material whist providing UV protection. Water and polymer based products also provide an anti-static feature which repels dust to a certain degree unlike silicone.

Silicone based tyre shine
- Clean Plus Tyre Shine (http://www.reflecteffect.com.au/products.php?cat=exteriordressings&prodId=ed2)

Water based interior & exterior treatments
- Clean Plus Exterior Plastic Renovator (http://www.reflecteffect.com.au/products.php?cat=exteriordressings&prodId=ed1)
- Clean Plus Dashboard Renovator (http://www.reflecteffect.com.au/products.php?cat=interior&prodId=i7)

Polymer Based interior & exterior treatments
- Prima Nero (http://www.reflecteffect.com.au/products.php?cat=interior&prodId=i1)
- Driven Vinyl/rubber/leather (http://www.reflecteffect.com.au/products.php?cat=interior&prodId=i3)

Cheers
Dave

[Jig]

Hi Dave:

Which one did you use on my R32 tyres? Can I get one of them from you please? Thanks, Jig.

[DaveXR8]

Hi Dave:

Which one did you use on my R32 tyres? Can I get one of them from you please? Thanks, Jig.

I used Prima Nero on your tyres Jig.

Ive got a few in stock so let me know when you would like it.

[Jig]

YEs please Dave. Let me know how I can buy it(paypal, EFT). I can come over and pick it up as well.

[bam]

Hi Dave,

Got a new Tornado Red GTI being delivered to me in the next few days. What polish etc would suit best for red without going to absolute top shelf products. car will be parked in a garage at night and outside carpark during the day. Also best places to source some of the suggestions you may make, i assume the products you suggest may not be available in retail stores?

Thanks in advance for your help and advise.

Cheers

Bam

[DaveXR8]

Hi Dave,

Got a new Tornado Red GTI being delivered to me in the next few days. What polish etc would suit best for red without going to absolute top shelf products. car will be parked in a garage at night and outside carpark during the day. Also best places to source some of the suggestions you may make, i assume the products you suggest may not be available in retail stores?

Thanks in advance for your help and advise.

Cheers

Bam

Hi Bam,

Congratulations on the new purchase.

A couple products I would recommend to help protect your paint and add depth and clarity to it would be to use Prima Amigo (http://www.reflecteffect.com.au/products.php?cat=sealants&prodId=s1) (glaze) and Prima Epic (http://www.reflecteffect.com.au/products.php?cat=wax&prodId=w1) (synthetic wax).

The Amigo is a paint cleaner/glaze which will clean the surface of the paint and also fill in light paint defects (which the paint should not have being a new car).
Being a polymer based product it gives the paint surface a nice slick feeling and by applying the Epic wax over the top of it, it will lock in the finish and would be good for about 3-4 moths protection.

If you are after slightly more durability then instead of Prima Epic you can substitute it with Driven Automotive Polish (http://www.reflecteffect.com.au/products.php?cat=sealants&prodId=s2). This is also a polymer based sealant and will bond with Amigo no problems. I have seen up to around 6 months protection from this combination.

These products can be sourced from myself but if there are some other particular products you are after let me know.

Cheers
Dave

[derek]

Lambswool or Microfibre Wash Mitts?

[DaveXR8]

Lambswool or Microfibre Wash Mitts?

Both do the same job so either one will be safe for your paint.

[Pharkus]

I can't find the post where there was a recommended wax to use on wheels. Before tomorrow when I put them on I was thinking of just applying my old NXT 2.0. Any thoughts from ppl that have done this (Chris I know you did yours recently, any difference?). Either way, with these new wheels I can get my hand in there pretty well, but pays to make the cleaning process a lot easier.

Next step would be to replace pads/rotors (BBK anyone) for less dust!

[derek]

I use Fk1000p on wheels. Cheap, works and bbfyb.

[derek]

how do I look after an open sky roof, it's not the standard paint/finish, it's like a glossy black glass for the roof including the sunroof.

is it the same maintenance process as normal paint? i.e. clay before polish then wax?

or, can i skip the wax /polish and just clay away the contaminants?

[DaveXR8]

I can't find the post where there was a recommended wax to use on wheels. Before tomorrow when I put them on I was thinking of just applying my old NXT 2.0. Any thoughts from ppl that have done this (Chris I know you did yours recently, any difference?). Either way, with these new wheels I can get my hand in there pretty well, but pays to make the cleaning process a lot easier.

Next step would be to replace pads/rotors (BBK anyone) for less dust!

Your best to get yourself some proper wheel sealant as regular waxes will melt off in no time from the heat generated from the brakes.

This is a good one which you can apply yourself
http://www.carcareproducts.com.au/product/nanolex/rim_sealant_kit

Otherwise I can apply the Opti-coat for you but wheels will need to be off the car and it costs about $40-$60 per wheel.


how do I look after an open sky roof, it's not the standard paint/finish, it's like a glossy black glass for the roof including the sunroof.

is it the same maintenance process as normal paint? i.e. clay before polish then wax?

or, can i skip the wax /polish and just clay away the contaminants?

Yeah treat it similar to paint.
Wash/Clay/Polish/Wax

[Pharkus]

Your best to get yourself some proper wheel sealant as regular waxes will melt off in no time from the heat generated from the brakes.

This is a good one which you can apply yourself
http://www.carcareproducts.com.au/product/nanolex/rim_sealant_kit



Thanks mate. Will contact you when I get the chance. Wheels unfortunately had to already go on to the car so will have to do whilst they are still attached. Just more fiddly.

[WingnutR32]

Hey fellow dubbers,

I've just received my very nice package from Car Care Products which was:
DAS6-Pro Orbital Machine polisher
Menzerna Sample Kit (Power Finish PO203S, Final Finish Hi Cut PO106FF, Final Finish Hi Gloss PO85RD, Sealing Wax APO60)
Dodo Juice Sour Power Shampoo
Dodo Juice Born Slippy + Clay Bar
Dodo Juice Lime Prime Pre-Wax Cleaner

So, I was hoping someone could quickly explain the correct timing to use my pre-wax cleaner, is it after I finish the claying or after machine polishing before i do the 'Sealant Wax'?

And also, is it just as effective to use the pre-wax cleaner by hand or use the machine?

[dainese]

Hey fellow dubbers,

I've just received my very nice package from Car Care Products which was:
DAS6-Pro Orbital Machine polisher
Menzerna Sample Kit (Power Finish PO203S, Final Finish Hi Cut PO106FF, Final Finish Hi Gloss PO85RD, Sealing Wax APO60)
Dodo Juice Sour Power Shampoo
Dodo Juice Born Slippy + Clay Bar
Dodo Juice Lime Prime Pre-Wax Cleaner

So, I was hoping someone could quickly explain the correct timing to use my pre-wax cleaner, is it after I finish the claying or after machine polishing before i do the 'Sealant Wax'?

And also, is it just as effective to use the pre-wax cleaner by hand or use the machine?

good blokes there, ey?

pre wax will be after the polishing is complete (99% sure).

its purpose is to remove polish and prep for wax/sealant.

[WingnutR32]

Thanks dainese,

They are great blokes!! I'm just annoyed that its raining all weekend so there would be very little point of detailing the car now...

Thanks for the information too, I wasn't sure which time to use it, I know that it says PRE-WAX cleaner, but I still get wax and polish mixed up, plus i wasn't sure whether it would work or be beneficial after using the 'Final Finish Hi Gloss PO85RD' polish..

[dainese]

people should be only cleaning and detailing thbeir cars when its over 22 degrees celcius. what's with that?

if your car is dirty you should clean it and not allow time for contaminants to bond or make love to your paint.

with good detailing, contaminants are less likely to bond and when they do. they come off more readily too.

polish corrects and refines paint and paint finish.

wax and sealant protects the paint from the outside world.

if you're unsure how to use all that gear, enrol in their detailing courses that they run every so often, $40 includes pizza lunch and detailing guide and tips.

[WingnutR32]

Oh I don't care what temperature it is outside, its just that we have lightning storms here currently, so would prefer not to be around a big hunk of metal with an electric machine polisher... If the thunder etc clears up overnight, I'll certainly be tackling the car with some minor correction and wax.

As for the courses, I don't exactly have free time to visit Sydney. As much as I would love to though.

[Pharkus]

Just make sure that it's not too hot when you start applying your last stage prep and you should be fine.

Also remember to not let your shampoo dry on the car.

Speaking with Pierre, I just bought a tonne of stuff from them, including an APC as the first step. If your car has previously had any wax/sealant on the paintwork it's best if you properly remove it before applying a fresh new layer on. Doing so will help the fresh wax to adhere to the paint better and last longer.

Really dreading when I have to seal and protect my wheels, though I know in the long term it will make them easier to clean.

[DaveXR8]

Pre-wax cleaners are used after polishing and before waxing or sealing.

I would defiitely recommend using the pre-wax cleaner after using Menzerna polishes as they leave a fair bit of oily residue which sometimes fill in any minor paint defects and gives you a false sense of finish. This is why I always do a alcohol wipedown after polishing to ensure I have achieved the finish I am really after.

Temperature does play a part in detailing as humidity and heat can effect how a polish reacts to paint.
Shouldnt be too much of an issue with VW paints as they are fairly solid but if your talking softer paints then polishes tend to dry quicker and not allow enough working time. This sometimes makes it harder to finesse and can be a bit of a pain to get a hologram free finish.

[WingnutR32]

Thanks for the info David. I assume that I just use the Lime Prime Pre-Wax undiluted just like a polish or sealant?

After you do your alcohol wipedown (assuming IPA?), if you do notice the imperfections (slight swirls etc), would you hit it again with the machine polish or by hand? I'm very much used to 'detailing cars' (in quotes as I do use the term very loosely given that its only been my parents Hyundai's with the mothers line) but this is my first time with an orbital and decent polishes and sealants. Really don't want to damage the R32's paint, but at the same time very keen to give it a go, I'm just sick of seeing bad spider web scratches everywhere and no real shine.

[DaveXR8]

I havent had any experience with Lime Prime but it does state that it contains micro abrasives so you should be able to use this with the RO as a final polishing/cleansing step before you apply your protection.

When Im doing any sort of correction I will do an IPA wipedown after polishing each section to see if Im happy with the results. If I still and after more correction I will do it with the machine but depending on what paint defects are left over I might change the pad & polsih combo to something heavier or lighter.
You just need to find the right combo for your car but remember it is always better to start light and work your way up if need be.

R32's have a decent amount of paint and are fairly solid unlike some modern Japanese cars so you will be pretty safe if you are correcting with an RO as it will take quite a fair bit of heavy polishing to cut through the paint.

[WingnutR32]

Thanks for all the information Dave. It's just finished raining here and I'm nearly finished clearing space in the garage so I can get some cleaner detailing area setup. I also had the chance to find out that my lights suck in the garage so will have to see what I can do about that.

[Pharkus]

...I also had the chance to find out that my lights suck in the garage so will have to see what I can do about that.

I got an electrician in and now it is bright as with 6 fluro tubes installed.

[DaveXR8]

I got an electrician in and now it is bright as with 6 fluro tubes installed.

6 fluro lights will definitley light up a garage! >D

I need some more in my workshop.

[WingnutR32]

Ended up using one of my mates old 400w halogen's hung from the ceiling. Can't exactly get an electrician in as I'm renting..

[Pharkus]

Ended up using one of my mates old 400w halogen's hung from the ceiling. Can't exactly get an electrician in as I'm renting..

I was going to buy a couple of flood lights as well for the sides, but decided it was a bit of overkill. Also didn't want to electrocute myself in the garage. Water + electricity = fail.

[fuzion]

I was going to buy a couple of flood lights as well for the sides, but decided it was a bit of overkill. Also didn't want to electrocute myself in the garage. Water + electricity = fail.

Buzz light year? lol.

Grab one of those portable lights from bunnings! more than enough!

[Pharkus]

Buzz light year? lol.

Grab one of those portable lights from bunnings! more than enough!

I need a wider garage more than anything else, that is what is impacting being able to see what I'm doing. If we eventually are able to afford to build a new one it will hopefully be wide enough for two cars to have a door fully open either side. Right now detailing the sides involves back right up against the wall. Wheels are a killer due to how low I have to bend over. So by the end of a 6 hour session, I can no longer walk. It'd be great to have a massive warehouse to detail in.

[DaveXR8]

I need a wider garage more than anything else, that is what is impacting being able to see what I'm doing. If we eventually are able to afford to build a new one it will hopefully be wide enough for two cars to have a door fully open either side. Right now detailing the sides involves back right up against the wall. Wheels are a killer due to how low I have to bend over. So by the end of a 6 hour session, I can no longer walk. It'd be great to have a massive warehouse to detail in.

Back when I was working as a car sales man I had a customer which was a pensioner and he had a 3 car garage but only had 1 car. The middle of this garage was empty space so he could work on his car comfortably. Left side was a hoist and the right side had all his tools.
He didnt modify his car or anything but detailed and washed it regularly.
The set up of his garage was to ensure that he could get to every little bit on his car.

[DaveXR8]

I thought Id post this detail I recently did in this section of a Black VZ R8 ute.

When the owner first called up he was inquiring about getting some overspray removed from the car so I asked him to bring it around for me to look at.

At first glance the car looked flawless as the owner even mentioned himself that he waxes and cleans his car regularly. There was the odd few swirls here and there but nothing major.
As for the over spray there were noticeable signs of it as I could see fine white specs and it also felt rough on the flat panels.

I mentioned that claying with some medium to fine grade clay will remove the overspray but I will need to do some machine polishing on it as it is a guarantee that the clay will leave marks on the black paint and will need to be corrected. So we settled on a Stage 2 Exterior Paint Enhancement with overspray removal and minor spot corrections.

First up I pre-soaked the car in a 50/50 mix of car shampoo & APC to soften up and strip off any wax build up. I then did a hand wash, dried with waffle weave towel then followed it up with a alcohol (IPA) wipedown to ensure the paint surface it free from all wax and silicones.

Got it onto the workshop and put some light on to it and this is what the paint condition looked like with all the wax removed.
It was worse than first thought as all the wax build up was hiding the true paint condition.
http://i414.photobucket.com/albums/pp229/Reflect_Effect/VZ%20Maloo%20R8/DSCN0516.jpg

http://i414.photobucket.com/albums/pp229/Reflect_Effect/VZ%20Maloo%20R8/DSCN0518.jpg

http://i414.photobucket.com/albums/pp229/Reflect_Effect/VZ%20Maloo%20R8/DSCN0519.jpg

http://i414.photobucket.com/albums/pp229/Reflect_Effect/VZ%20Maloo%20R8/DSCN0510.jpg

I started off by correctinf a couple scratches on the rear bar.
http://i414.photobucket.com/albums/pp229/Reflect_Effect/VZ%20Maloo%20R8/DSCN0509.jpg

Wetsanded with some 2000 grit
http://i414.photobucket.com/albums/pp229/Reflect_Effect/VZ%20Maloo%20R8/DSCN0522.jpg

After polishing with Prima Swirl & Orange LC pad by rotary
http://i414.photobucket.com/albums/pp229/Reflect_Effect/VZ%20Maloo%20R8/DSCN0524.jpg

Car all masked up
http://i414.photobucket.com/albums/pp229/Reflect_Effect/VZ%20Maloo%20R8/DSCN0526.jpg

A 2 Stage machine polish was carried out. This was done with Menzerna PO203s on ornage LC by rotary and followed up with Prima Finish on Black LC pad on rotary as well.

These are some shots straight off the buff (no LSP)
http://i414.photobucket.com/albums/pp229/Reflect_Effect/VZ%20Maloo%20R8/DSC08284.jpg

http://i414.photobucket.com/albums/pp229/Reflect_Effect/VZ%20Maloo%20R8/DSC08286.jpg

http://i414.photobucket.com/albums/pp229/Reflect_Effect/VZ%20Maloo%20R8/DSC08287.jpg

http://i414.photobucket.com/albums/pp229/Reflect_Effect/VZ%20Maloo%20R8/DSC08293.jpg

http://i414.photobucket.com/albums/pp229/Reflect_Effect/VZ%20Maloo%20R8/DSC08294.jpg

Finished results after IPA wipedown, final wash and a coat of Driven Automotive Polish. Sun was out to play as well :cool:
http://i414.photobucket.com/albums/pp229/Reflect_Effect/VZ%20Maloo%20R8/DSC08301.jpg

http://i414.photobucket.com/albums/pp229/Reflect_Effect/VZ%20Maloo%20R8/DSC08302.jpg

http://i414.photobucket.com/albums/pp229/Reflect_Effect/VZ%20Maloo%20R8/DSC08304.jpg

http://i414.photobucket.com/albums/pp229/Reflect_Effect/VZ%20Maloo%20R8/DSC08307.jpg

http://i414.photobucket.com/albums/pp229/Reflect_Effect/VZ%20Maloo%20R8/DSC08308.jpg

http://i414.photobucket.com/albums/pp229/Reflect_Effect/VZ%20Maloo%20R8/DSC08309.jpg

http://i414.photobucket.com/albums/pp229/Reflect_Effect/VZ%20Maloo%20R8/DSC08310.jpg

http://i414.photobucket.com/albums/pp229/Reflect_Effect/VZ%20Maloo%20R8/DSC08312.jpg

http://i414.photobucket.com/albums/pp229/Reflect_Effect/VZ%20Maloo%20R8/DSC08313.jpg

Thanks for reading:D

[Pharkus]

<3 Dave

Awesome job as usual mate, loving the neatness of the product shelf in the background and the floodlights. You or the client also has ample room there for detailing.

Few questions:

So you did APC 50/50 soak -> IPA wipedown -> Polish -> IPA then wash -> LSP? Thinking I can skip the polish step.

Also what concentration of IPA, just straight from bottle to cloth for wipedown or do you dilute into some water and use a cloth to wipe down with?

Finally, do you have a specific brand of IPA that you use? I'm hoping to pop down to Bunnings soon to get some.

[DaveXR8]

<3 Dave

Awesome job as usual mate, loving the neatness of the product shelf in the background and the floodlights. You or the client also has ample room there for detailing.

Few questions:

So you did APC 50/50 soak -> IPA wipedown -> Polish -> IPA then wash -> LSP? Thinking I can skip the polish step.

Also what concentration of IPA, just straight from bottle to cloth for wipedown or do you dilute into some water and use a cloth to wipe down with?

Finally, do you have a specific brand of IPA that you use? I'm hoping to pop down to Bunnings soon to get some.

Cheers mate.

I did the pre-soak, wash, clay then IPA.
You can skip the polsihing bit but it would be good to use a paint cleaner or glaze before LSP to help fill in any minor paint defects.

The IPA I use is 100% concentration which I buy in bulk and i dilute it 1:1 with water.
The Diggers IPA at Bunnings is also 100% so dilute it the same.

[Pharkus]

Thanks again mate. Learning all the time and this will probably be the first time that I get it at least half right!

I should really pop down to a course to look into using a machine rather than doing the whole process by hand.

[fuzion]

pharkus, next one for CCP is 30th of jan, however i think looking to do one exclusively for golfnet crew if we can get all people together! (12-15)

[derek]

I'd be interested, and could probably get a few more ppl too!

[xc17ed]

I'd be interested as well :)

[Pharkus]

pharkus, next one for CCP is 30th of jan, however i think looking to do one exclusively for golfnet crew if we can get all people together! (12-15)

Only if I can make it up to NSW hey? Unless that was a Melbourne date?

[derek]

Anybody have a trick such as lighting techniques or some cheap equipment that allows you to see the wax you apply on white cars more easy? I'm finding myself bending my head at super wierd angles just so I can see whether I've applied the wax on all areas of the panel before letting it dry for the wipe off.

Also, ways to see if you've left any wax on the car by missing to wipe it off after it has dried for 20-30min?

[DaveXR8]

Anybody have a trick such as lighting techniques or some cheap equipment that allows you to see the wax you apply on white cars more easy? I'm finding myself bending my head at super wierd ankles just so I can see whether I've applied the wax on all areas of the panel before letting it dry for the wipe off.

Also, ways to see if you've left any wax on the car by missing to wipe it off after it has dried for 20-30min?

I dont think there is any special lighting to help with this. If there is then I want it! lol...

I tilt my head it all wired directions to see the where I have waxed.

[WingnutR32]

Anyone got good tips for cleaning the polishing pads? I tried hand rinsing them and it didn't do much at all, so I chucked them in the washing machine and it has now clumped all the polishing compounds into the center of the pads making them coarse.

[dainese]

Anyone got good tips for cleaning the polishing pads? I tried hand rinsing them and it didn't do much at all, so I chucked them in the washing machine and it has now clumped all the polishing compounds into the center of the pads making them coarse.

http://www.carcareproducts.com.au/product/edge/foam_pad_conditioning_brush

[WingnutR32]

Brilliant! Thanks dainese.

[dainese]

Brilliant! Thanks dainese.

no worries. pricey but does the job well. just run the cleaner along the pad while rotating slowly.

[DaveXR8]

Anyone got good tips for cleaning the polishing pads? I tried hand rinsing them and it didn't do much at all, so I chucked them in the washing machine and it has now clumped all the polishing compounds into the center of the pads making them coarse.

I let my pads sit in a bucket of water with some APC in it to break down the polish then just squeeze it out by hand. Cleans it perfectly every time.

[WingnutR32]

Cheers for the tip David. I'm guessing APC = All Purpose Cleaner??

[DaveXR8]

Cheers for the tip David. I'm guessing APC = All Purpose Cleaner??

Yep :D

[Riley]

Hi Dave/All,

My car is kept in an underground car park and I leave the car during the week as I walk to work. My query is that in an underground car park is it more likely to be exposed to contaminants (car fumes and dust) and the effect this will have on the paintwork? Also would you recommend a car cover or does this come with its own associated issues?

This sounds like a silly query but my brakes seem to get quite noisy after being parked up for a few days and was wondering if this may be from the fumes/dust and if so would it affect the paint work?

[derek]

removing chewing gum residue from car paint? how do people go about that?

[DaveXR8]

Hi Dave/All,

My car is kept in an underground car park and I leave the car during the week as I walk to work. My query is that in an underground car park is it more likely to be exposed to contaminants (car fumes and dust) and the effect this will have on the paintwork? Also would you recommend a car cover or does this come with its own associated issues?

This sounds like a silly query but my brakes seem to get quite noisy after being parked up for a few days and was wondering if this may be from the fumes/dust and if so would it affect the paint work?

Your car is still exposed to contaminants in an underground car park but not as much as outside. But like you said it'll mainly be exhaust fumes and dust.

If you dont want your paint scratching then I wouldnt recommend a car cover. Even though there are some good ones out there they will eventually start scratching your car becasue if your taking it on and off constantly there is a guarantee that dirt and grit will be stuck onto the inside of the cover.

If your car is parked underground for long periods of time then it is a good idea to take your car for a spin around the block after washing to get the car as dry as possible because if its still wet and it has time to sit in a dark damp area for long periods of time then it can cause parts to corrode and even seize up in extreme cases.


removing chewing gum residue from car paint? how do people go about that?

Wax and grease remover or thinners.

[Riley]

Thanks Dave. Will be in touch soon to buy some products I think.

[CarCareProducts]

Cheers for the tip David. I'm guessing APC = All Purpose Cleaner??

All Purpose Cleaner (APC) (http://www.carcareproducts.com.au/product/mint/apc)

And regarding pads, let them soak over night in a bucket of dish washing detergent and mildly warm water and following morning rinse the pads under running water and they should come up pretty well. Just let air dry some where they won't be blown over.

[WingnutR32]

Thanks for that information!

Will see how I go with the overnight soak to bring the pads back some life.

[DaveXR8]

Did a Deluxe Detail on this Lexus SC430 and a Stage 2 on the paint work to remove some swirls and light scratches.

Original condition of paint
http://i414.photobucket.com/albums/pp229/Reflect_Effect/Lexus%20SC430/DSC08805.jpg

http://i414.photobucket.com/albums/pp229/Reflect_Effect/Lexus%20SC430/DSC08806.jpg

http://i414.photobucket.com/albums/pp229/Reflect_Effect/Lexus%20SC430/DSC08807.jpg

Holograms on panel which was resprayed and buffed by panel shop
http://i414.photobucket.com/albums/pp229/Reflect_Effect/Lexus%20SC430/DSC08813.jpg

Paint recieved a Stage 2 machine polish by rotary.
1st step was with Menzerna PO203s and orange LC pad and Meguiars 205 and black pad was used for 2nd step.

50/50 shot
http://i414.photobucket.com/albums/pp229/Reflect_Effect/Lexus%20SC430/DSC08811.jpg

http://i414.photobucket.com/albums/pp229/Reflect_Effect/Lexus%20SC430/DSC08814.jpg

Interior got a full detail as well and this is what the MF cloth looked like after just cleaning the backrest on the drivers seat
http://i414.photobucket.com/albums/pp229/Reflect_Effect/Lexus%20SC430/DSC08810.jpg

After shots
http://i414.photobucket.com/albums/pp229/Reflect_Effect/Lexus%20SC430/DSC08815.jpg

http://i414.photobucket.com/albums/pp229/Reflect_Effect/Lexus%20SC430/DSC08818.jpg

http://i414.photobucket.com/albums/pp229/Reflect_Effect/Lexus%20SC430/DSC08819.jpg

http://i414.photobucket.com/albums/pp229/Reflect_Effect/Lexus%20SC430/DSC08820.jpg

http://i414.photobucket.com/albums/pp229/Reflect_Effect/Lexus%20SC430/DSC08821.jpg

http://i414.photobucket.com/albums/pp229/Reflect_Effect/Lexus%20SC430/DSC08823.jpg

http://i414.photobucket.com/albums/pp229/Reflect_Effect/Lexus%20SC430/DSC08825.jpg

http://i414.photobucket.com/albums/pp229/Reflect_Effect/Lexus%20SC430/DSC08830.jpg

http://i414.photobucket.com/albums/pp229/Reflect_Effect/Lexus%20SC430/DSC08826.jpg

Engine bay was clean but it did get a light degrease.
Did I mention that it has twin Blitz superchargers...
http://i414.photobucket.com/albums/pp229/Reflect_Effect/Lexus%20SC430/DSC08829.jpg

Cheers
Dave:D

[golf_girl]

All of this info is really helpful!
Thanks everyone:)

[stephen8512]

Hey dave. How much would this be to do a 4wd? Toyota Prado?

[dainese]

geez the SC430 was/is ugly.

But thats a fantastic result! Better than factory fresh now.

[ikprojekt]

Dave I would've called you sooo badly if you were in VIC, to come and detail my car! GR8T JOB!

[DaveXR8]

Been getting a few people asking about how to remove the adhesive or double sided tape after de-badging their car.

The quickest and easiest way is to use a "Caramel Wheel"
http://img843.imageshack.us/img843/3372/20111213143002.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/843/20111213143002.jpg/)

You can find this at any auto paint store and usually costs about $15-$25.

All you do is place it on the end of a regular drill, set it at low to medium speed and as it rotates run the outer diameter of the wheel along the adhesive and it will slowly pull the tape off.

After the adhesive/tape has been removed you can then just wipe the area down with some wax and grease remover or Isopropyl alcohol then follow it with a light abrasive polish to clean up the paint.

Note: It is recommended that the caramel wheel is only used on 2 pack (clear coated) paint as it can burn through or leave marks on single stage (no clear) paints.

[Pharkus]

I started apply the Optimum spray on wax outside and continued even though it got sunny (yea I know stupid). I found that due to the heat, the wax then streaked and I had to then use the gloss enhancer (once indoors) to remove the streaking. I assume this was the right thing to do to correct it bar using an APC to remove the wax completely?

Note this is on top of my opti-coat.

[DaveXR8]

I started apply the Optimum spray on wax outside and continued even though it got sunny (yea I know stupid). I found that due to the heat, the wax then streaked and I had to then use the gloss enhancer (once indoors) to remove the streaking. I assume this was the right thing to do to correct it bar using an APC to remove the wax completely?

Note this is on top of my opti-coat.

The heat from the panels causes the wax to dry up on the panel too quickly and not allowing enough time for you to spread it out evenly.

You did the right thing by using the Gloss Enhancer (QD) first as this will easily remove any streaking as the wax hasnt had enough time to cure.

[GregoInc]

Dave I would've called you sooo badly if you were in VIC, to come and detail my car! GR8T JOB!

For Melbourne have a chat with Mario at Euro Gloss Prestige in Moorabin. Great guy and is seriously anal when it comes to detailing cars :-)

[GregoInc]

geez the SC430 was/is ugly.

Like they say on Top Gear.... no matter what engine, body, or performance... it's still just a Lexus. LOL

[1stVeeDub]

Hi guys/gals - I'm in Sydney and hoping to be picking up my first vw in about a week. Its a 4 month old demo - manual - 2011 Candy White 118TSI . Being white, what cleaning products should I set myself up with to try to keep it looking like new? I'm renting so only have a car port and will mostly use the car on weekends and seldomly at night. Is there a general, off the shelf, all purpose cleaner I can use on the steeering wheel, gear knob and dash?

Is this the right area as well to ask advise on window tinting, an alarm system, rear parking sensors and blue tooth?

Thanks

Tony

[sli]

Couldn't find it in this thread but what is the best product to get rid of fresh bird poo? APC on a cloth and let it sit on the poo till is softens up and take it off? Or is there anything better?

[Peanut Butter Wolf]

Hi guys/gals - I'm in Sydney and hoping to be picking up my first vw in about a week. Its a 4 month old demo - manual - 2011 Candy White 118TSI . Being white, what cleaning products should I set myself up with to try to keep it looking like new? I'm renting so only have a car port and will mostly use the car on weekends and seldomly at night. Is there a general, off the shelf, all purpose cleaner I can use on the steeering wheel, gear knob and dash?

Is this the right area as well to ask advise on window tinting, an alarm system, rear parking sensors and blue tooth?

Thanks

Tony

This is what I use for my interior, and I find it second to none... :)

http://www.carcareproducts.com.au/product/303_products/aerospace_protectant

[Lucas_R]

Hot water does this brilliantly. It pretty much dissolves the bird muck in front of your eyes.


Couldn't find it in this thread but what is the best product to get rid of fresh bird poo? APC on a cloth and let it sit on the poo till is softens up and take it off? Or is there anything better?

[dainese]

Hot water does this brilliantly. It pretty much dissolves the bird muck in front of your eyes.

Yep. Usually it just needs to be soaked to loosen up. If not bird dropping wipes from autoglym. I hear they do strip the wax/sealant, so best reapply afterwards.

Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk

[Xciteu]

Does anyone have a magic cure to rid windows of watermarks?

[dainese]

Does anyone have a magic cure to rid windows of watermarks?

IIRC, vinegar.
2:1 water:vinegar
or paint cleaner
iso alcohol diluted with water too

[Xciteu]

IIRC, vinegar.
2:1 water:vinegar
or paint cleaner
iso alcohol diluted with water too

Thanks mate! Will give it a go next weekend:)

[MK 666]

What is the best thing to remove tar spots other than the tar remover you can buy?

CW GTi is 4 months old and the roads have recently been tarred around here and showing spots, not happy jan.

[fuzion]

adhesive and tar remover.

Tarminator (http://www.carcareproducts.com.au/product/stoner/tarminator) is great.. you can use any tar and adhesive remover though. But nothing else will remove the tar as you need something quite strong and often petroleum based as such.

[MalcolmlieuGTI]

What is the best microfibre drying towel you can buy?

What cleaning products are you enthusiast's using for your Volkswagens?

:)

[derek]

Microfibre towels: Asda, I4D Uber Yellow, Costco.

[MalcolmlieuGTI]

Microfibre towels: Asda, I4D Uber Yellow, Costco.

Where can I buy these Derek? I have been using the Microfibre towels from CCP and find that they are not drying the car as much as I would like them to. Any tips?

[Peanut Butter Wolf]

Using Zaino goodies for my detailing. Lots of love for these, 6 months in and I'm still beading.

I'll probably strip it all off and layer it back up again soon though.