View Full Version : My GOLF R - light mods only! :)
Hey guys, been on here for a little while now and thought Id have a go at making a thread about my own car.
I own a Golf R and dont wont to go too crazy with my car for mods till warranty is up, but that doesnt mean you cant have fun with it a bit.
So far,
- I have put the Lakin plate holders on it to make it a bit more clean at the front.
- I got one of those pedals for the dead pedal on the DSG cars
- Had a minor stereo upgrade to my DYNAUDIO system, its more of a complimentary add on as I retained the head unit and all the speakers, I just added an amp and sub.
- Installed a boost gauge from autometer.
- Have a ruined rim and tyre that the dealership will be replacing shortly
- Have a boost leak that is driving me f***en insane. :)
Dont have many photos and will be sure to update as I do.
(As per my post in the MKV thread in this forum)
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj302/Boost-Juice23/2011-07-04130102.jpg
Tony Dorans work on a GOLF R. Just a shallow mount 13 inch sub.. still sounds pretty good for a shallow mount. the real thing about the install is the install. There has been not one hole drilled into the car, some liquid nails were used. Dynamated boot. Stock speakers. And just a cap for show. Its had some beams put in it so the floor is weight bearing and can handle a load on it like the normal floor from factory.
Cant wait to get this rim and leak fixed. Cant stand the car as it is.
Realistic Future mods:
Probably will just get an exhaust and an air filter at some stage and maybe a FMIC like the APR one. Just breathing mods at this stage and the 'cooler to keep it nice and safe. My service centre seems ok with about that much. Anymore and Im stretching the friendship. :)
Dreams/Feeling/ambitions/: After warranty runs out I'll probably considering putting a decent turbo on it (other than the stock one). I do really like how the K04 is small enough and big enough to do most stuff well.. but a bigger one could be on the cards later down the track, at the same time i'd get a HPFP and maybe injectors. But this is much later I havent even had my first service yet..
That DSG tune that lets you snap 4750 rpm launches sounds alright as well since were are dreaming!
So far pretty happy with the car, but not without a couple of issues with it.
Pros
-Love the ride
-DCC is awesome
-AWD
-Sound/DSG brup
-Love the steering wheel
-Dynaudio even stock, (when tuned treb -9 mid +5 low -3) sounds pretty damn amazing for a stocka stereo
-Having an auto has proven awesome in the city
-Insurance cost!
-Sleeper
-The bluetooth is clever cause it sounds out the music when you get a message, annoying - but you know you got a message which is pretty handy sometimes.
Cons
-Warranty issues: Faulty air vent, DSG was slipping a few times, gotta go in cause the tacho cluster is rattling way too much, boost leak
-Not as fuel economical as it was made out to be, still ok though but 8.7l/100km - "tell em there dreaming!"
-Expensive parts for it
-Sat nav is pretty ordinary for 2.5K/cant even watch the DVDs whilst moving. I wouldnt pay 2.5K to watch movies when Im stopped for 20 sec intervals, didnt think of that when I bought it.. for 2.5K.. lol It would be gret for the passangers on a longer trip.
Pros outweight the cons big time and love this car with all my heart damn it. cant wait to take it for a good car cruise!
Almost forgot to add to this diary entry, but my car sometimes makes a mad grunt sound when starting it. Its like a bad starter motor.. but I guess it could be anything. It only does it when its the first time of the day being started (off being cold). Any feedback would be great on that as well.
Cheers!
morph
06-07-2011, 02:24 AM
Regarding your cons
high fuel consumption is quite normal for the break in period how many km's do you have on your car and what percentage of the time would you say you spend in traffic?
on dvd in motion... it is a legal requirement to not have dvds or videos play on tv while the car is in motion... this can however be easily fixed with a dvd in motion fix
why hasn't the dealer fixed the boost leak via warranty?
Hey morph,
I have 8000KMs thus far, and the DVD fix is a must - honeslty I dont how you can seel a crappy DVD player that is region locked and SD quality that only works whilst your parked - for $2,500!!
As for the leak, the dealership I took it into just handed me the keys back and said "we cant find anything wrong with it" {even after the mechanic/tech in the morning heard the noise in the first 5 secs of being in my car when we went for a wrap around the block..}
The kind service desk guy though did offer to take another look at it which is good.. hopefull they take good care of the car this time.
Prodigy
06-07-2011, 04:03 AM
Love the boot install Dennis, will get around to adding a sub and amp to mine at some stage.
ravun
06-07-2011, 09:36 AM
Glad you are liking your R. Some nice tasteful and yet simple mods can make all the difference. I have the Lakin plate holders and they certainly do neaten up the front of the car. I mounted the front one upside down so there is now nothing obstructing the front air dam.
Can you describe a bit more about your rattle. My car has developed an interrmittent rattle recently and seems to be coming from immediately behind the steering wheel. It seems to occur only at about 40-60kms when not on the accelerator, as soon as I start accelerating it will stop. Can you depress somewhere to stop it?
morph
06-07-2011, 02:19 PM
I would be pretty persistent in getting that leak fixed and them fixing it...
Ravun some times cars devlop rattles at the steering wheel usually due to the air bag or wiring for the air bag etc..
Love the boot install Dennis, will get around to adding a sub and amp to mine at some stage.
Thanks heaps mate appreciate it. It should be getting a tweak tomorrow as well. Will post up if its any good.
Glad you are liking your R. Some nice tasteful and yet simple mods can make all the difference. I have the Lakin plate holders and they certainly do neaten up the front of the car. I mounted the front one upside down so there is now nothing obstructing the front air dam.
Can you describe a bit more about your rattle. My car has developed an interrmittent rattle recently and seems to be coming from immediately behind the steering wheel. It seems to occur only at about 40-60kms when not on the accelerator, as soon as I start accelerating it will stop. Can you depress somewhere to stop it?
Yeah thats why modding is great. A couple of little things here and there make the difference, dont need to spend big to make it special (although it helps! :))
The rattle is just more of a diesel type rattle from the transmission, it makes the sound like that at all revs but more when the car is on its way down in revs (compression if you will). Maybe some oil in the diff might make it go away at first service? Who knows I have flogged it a little bit here and there, but it hasnt used any oil and is also warmed up before every drive before it gets any. :)
The leak on the other hand has been found and I will describe what happened in my next post.
I would be pretty persistent in getting that leak fixed and them fixing it...
Ravun some times cars devlop rattles at the steering wheel usually due to the air bag or wiring for the air bag etc..
Yeah that is probably my last problem.. the tachos cluster is jumping and squeeling like crazy on my car. Its the really the only major rattle problem I have in my car. Its not the steering wheel for me, but you notice it greatly. All you do to test if this is what it is for you, is hold, push and lightly tug side to side on the tachos for both revs, speed, and even anywhere on the cluster behind the steering wheel and you'll find there is a lot of give and rattle their. Sounds like the rattles on an older car thats been running 2x15inch subs!
Well very happy to say that I found out what my leak was. I have thought about it every day since I have had it as everytime I put my foot down it really irked me to shreds. I had taken it to the audio install place. nothing. I also had taken it to VW to find, nothing. So it was time for the thinking cap to go.
It really sounded like a boost leak so I figured it must be something that is on the line of piping where charged air travels. So i had another look at my engine bay and what do you know, the back of my engine cover has been cracked, and you can even see a bit of air filter (yikes). Hence why I got induction noise and a slight pssh sometimes.
I spoke to my audio guy, he was very kind and happy to replace my engine cover. Hold onto lunch I called VW and its $570+GST!
I have been gooing to my audio place for about 13 years. That, combined with the fact that I will be installing a Volkswagen Racing intake on it made me let the audio guy take it to a licenced plastic welder to fix.
Its a bandaid approach but its at the back of the engine bay and you cant see it. The audio guy is one of the good guys in car modding world, hes looked after me for years, and it wouldnt be right to slog him when he has always done the right thing for me. Mistakes sometimes happen with this stuff, and if you have some who will look after you, you gotta have some give I guess.
Anyways so thats all sorted.
Now lets see what happens with VW and the rim replacement. On the 4th of July, they promised me a wheel and tyre replacement. I speak to the guy yesterday ( no return phone calls I have to go in there) and its now being reversed into a "new tyre and wheel repair"..? Like WTF.
I went into TempeTyres to get a professional opinion on repairing as opposed to replacing a wheel. Apparently if they repair it it wont be a perfect colour match. The repaired wheel will be a different shade. This is unavoidable. It can be close but not right.
The rim is f***ed so a new one is what I am going for. You see it everyday and if you have one wheel slightly darker or lighter than the others it will look terrible - I havent even had my first service yet!.
Anyways thats the update on my car blog :)
Thanks for having a read.
Prodigy
06-07-2011, 05:19 PM
Glad you sourced the problem of the leak, typical that trained mechanics are unable to find the problem but with a bit of common sense you were able to find the issue yourself.
Keep pushing for a complete rim and tyre replacement, i also wouldn't be happy with just a fix of the original, especially if they can't guarantee it will be a colour match..
dyljoy
06-07-2011, 07:49 PM
Great start for ur build up thread, mate. can u show us what lakin plate holder look like?
All the best~
dave-r
06-07-2011, 09:47 PM
Dennis if it makes you feel better, I fucked a rim earlier in the year. My arse is still hurting from the experience but at least I have something I can turn into a coffee table or something lol. Came bloody close to ordering a set of Wedsport SA-55M in matte grey but chickened out.
Fuel econ is ok if you're used to 15-20L/100km range, my long term average is mid 13's which is fine with me. You can do sub 10's (not in traffic of course) if you don't drive like an idiot but I find the experience miserable and pointless hehe.
I had a few rattles (door trims etc) which the dealer sorted out in May but a track day the week after brought back the passenger door rattle, I guess your sub will do a good job of masking that stuff now :D
Riley
06-07-2011, 10:55 PM
Would also love to see some photos of the plate holders, front and rear if possible. A problem I need to fix sooner rather than later. Sure the photos will answer but if no photos available, are they euro? MIne are not, just standard WA private plates.
Hey I'll definitely endeavor to take some pics of the plate holders for next week at the latest.. Maybe Sunday if I get a chance.
As for the boost leak issue. Mate all I can say it's been a fucken mission. Went to back to Atarmon today to see if I can get it looked at. I got told that "we'll take a look at it once we worked out what we are doing with the rim" that they fucked.
I got over that quick smart. So I headed to HiTech and mate Lambros what a champion. Took a look at the car for me even though he was busy. Got it up on the hoist and fortunately/unfortunately there was no leak anywhere to be seen.
So I was out of ideas. I have taken it past a host places now and running out of enthusiasm for the car. Almost.
I went to Five Dock VW today not knowing what to expect. Explained the situation to the service desk guy.. A) he seemed like he cared. B) he could feel my pain. He said "I'll go get Sam". The guy came out introduces himself and seems pretty kee to help. And is first guy who I have run into anywhere that knows these cars back to front. The shop was pretty busy, but he took me round the block. Mate - 10 mins and the guy cracked this puzzle that has mistified workshops (some I went to even had Lambo and porsche in the workshop) alloyed the place. Truly thankful I ran into this guy and am very impressed with Sam's knowledge with VW cars, particularly the sports models.
Everything I mentioned he knew off the top of his head. Good work and thanks to them boys.
dyljoy
08-07-2011, 10:52 PM
Can't wait for the photo, good work~
stephen8512
09-07-2011, 12:09 AM
Hey mate. So it was a boost leak? What was the problem? Is it fixed now?
Would also love to see some photos of the plate holders, front and rear if possible. A problem I need to fix sooner rather than later. Sure the photos will answer but if no photos available, are they euro? MIne are not, just standard WA private plates.
Hey mine are the standard size NSW plates (6 digits same size as the good old gold and yellow plates) will definitely post a pic up when I get a chance!
dyljoy
11-07-2011, 08:45 PM
wooo~nice
Riley
12-07-2011, 02:02 AM
Hey mine are the standard size NSW plates (6 digits same size as the good old gold and yellow plates) will definitely post a pic up when I get a chance!
They would be the photos I would love to see when you get a chance. MIne look really clumsy at the moment.
Fab_R
12-07-2011, 06:41 AM
Hey man yeah thanks to Sam the foreman at FiveDock it is now sorted out. It was actually the plug in the firewall, which had been knocked out some how. So i ordered a new one and installed it myself today, and can say that there is an awesome silence! To sort this out, I will be getting either a Volkswagen racing Intake, APR 1+2, or a Gruppe M. All should be street legal as they are enclosed.
On some more cheery news,
I got my FMIC a couple of days ago! Im not going to unbox it yet completely as I am wanting to take it somewhere to get it installed. I have been quoted around $500 from a few places. (530, 480, 550).
Some pics:
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj302/Boost-Juice23/2011-07-11185047.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj302/Boost-Juice23/2011-07-11185024.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj302/Boost-Juice23/2011-07-11184931.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj302/Boost-Juice23/2011-07-11184907.jpg
Nice work, its about a five hour job to give you an idea on what you will be charged.
dave-r
12-07-2011, 12:17 PM
Good stuff Dennis, just remembered I forgot to ring ya last week. Will give you a buzz later
Nice work, its about a five hour job to give you an idea on what you will be charged.
That is what's stopping tight arse over here lol. Stupid car needing to have half the front end removed!
MasterKevin
12-07-2011, 12:32 PM
Just do it yourself. Its like lego and takes like 4-6 hours depending on if you done it before or not.
Save yourself 300 or so bucks ;)
dave-r
12-07-2011, 12:37 PM
I reckon it would take me 4-6 days and the car would end up looking like it had a front end collision :D
lmao yeah tell me about it. I cant see it finishing pretty If I was to instal it. You have to take out the headlights and stuff. Meh. I can put in a boost gauge. And me and my mate installed a FMIC on his skyline, but his dad had ALL the tools. I remember my mate broke something.. so he went and got another one. lol you need to be tooled up for a job like this, and I pretty much have a drill and screw driver.
dave-r
12-07-2011, 03:24 PM
lol you need to be tooled up for a job like this
Not true! In this case, I'd be the tool so sometimes you can be over tooled for the job :D
Have you looked at the install manual? How hard could it be hehe
Yeah true, but im a pretty massive tool also, and I might end up with a 2-door!
MasterKevin
12-07-2011, 04:13 PM
Lol get a screw driver and a flat head and jack stands. Basically all you need for this job :p
dave-r
12-07-2011, 04:28 PM
Yeah true, but im a pretty massive tool also, and I might end up with a 2-door!
Couldn't be that much of a tool, that's an improvement :D
Kev as a computer nerd, I'll stick with paying other people to get their hands dirty. Much safer in the end!
dev17a
12-07-2011, 05:15 PM
all you need to stick that APR IC on:
http://www.durapost.com.au/assets/images/installation/hitachi%20jackhammer.jpg
http://www.ptms.com.au/uploads/9555NBK.gif
http://britfa.gs/uhu/src/124577719595.jpg
dave-r
12-07-2011, 05:18 PM
That'd never work....without some cable ties!
dev17a
12-07-2011, 05:23 PM
there u go:
http://www.modders-inc.com/modules/NDHow-To/images/cable_management/cable_man_howto-1.jpg
:D
http://www.ptms.com.au/uploads/9555NBK.gif
there u go:
http://www.modders-inc.com/modules/NDHow-To/images/cable_management/cable_man_howto-1.jpg
:D
You guys are over thinking it.
More like, just a lot of this:
http://www.smh.com.au/ffximage/2008/01/02/mchammer_narrowweb__300x344,0.jpg
Sorry, wrong one
http://hand-and-power-tools.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/Claw-Hammer-1.jpg.
dave-r
13-07-2011, 11:57 AM
We joke, but the end result would still be better than some of the dodgy work I've seen before!
dyljoy
29-07-2011, 12:49 PM
Great to hear that. Post some pic when u done. Love to see what rim in your choice.
cheers dyljoy, and will do!
just a small update, my car's RVC stopped working properly today. I got out of the car and the camera stayed open. :( After I locked the car, checked it for a while and started to walk off presto it went back in again.
So I got back in, turned the car on and tried again. I put it in reverse and the screen came up as per usual. Then when I put it back in Park, it did go back in but after a lot longer than usual, with the RVC taking a little while, longer than normal by quite a bit.
Not really for the forum only, but also for my own reference since this is sort of my diary thing, at next service or next available time I have
-I need to get the rattle which is driving me crazy fixed which is in the roof where the reading glasses go,
-I need to get the RVC checked, and
-maybe the mechatronics unit fixed as I have had the DSG reset, and the gearbox has still slipped (already).
Could the RVC be taking its time to go in due to cold weather? Not sure how the camera flips open but I know on my hatch if it's cold it won't pop open..
due to cold weather? Not sure how the camera flips open but I know on my hatch if it's cold it won't pop open..
Hmm.. thats very wierd. I would wish it happened last week so I could agree, but it was a fine 22 degree day in Sydney, Bondi today.
Actually that very wierd CSR are you sure yours is functioning normally? How cold are we talking?
zbeasty
01-08-2011, 09:21 AM
That sounds like what mine did just before it died about 2 months ago now. Took it in and they said it was a sensor. When I select reverse all I get is a loud beep and the screen goes blank. They ordered a new sensor which had to be painted then went to fit it and discovered it was the wrong one. Finally had the correct sensor installed last Wednesday and everything apparently worked for about 10 sec before stopping again. Now they are saying its the control unit so 2 weeks to come from Germany.
dave-r
01-08-2011, 10:57 AM
-maybe the mechatronics unit fixed as I have had the DSG reset, and the gearbox has still slipped (already).
Hey Dennis what issues you been having? Same stuff that was talked about over at VWWC ages ago?
Every so often mine will fail to select a gear and just rev it's tits off. Does it every few weeks, totally random. No hard acceleration or anything. It's not throwing any codes and dealer claims there are no updates so what exactly is the DSG reset?
Hey Dennis what issues you been having? Same stuff that was talked about over at VWWC ages ago?
Every so often mine will fail to select a gear and just rev it's tits off. Does it every few weeks, totally random. No hard acceleration or anything. It's not throwing any codes and dealer claims there are no updates so what exactly is the DSG reset?
Hey Dave,
Yeah same issue man. I explained to the guys I was letting work on my car, before they damaged my rim, at Artarmon VW in Sydney that my gearbox was slipping gears sporadically and that how sometimes it would do it in dangerous situations. They told me that it probably just needs a "reset". I thought great lets do it, I took the car in, picked it up in the arvo adn thought great problem solved. Fuck me it wasnt barely a week before it happened again on a big windy curve coming down from milsons point. Thing is im a decent driver and have done my rally courses and can handle a car going sideways at reasonable speeds (60-80KM/h) on a track.. im not peter brock by no means, but after having performance cars for a long time and doing the relevant training and riding a motorycle etc.. VW are lucky its happeneing to me!! If it happned to a normal person like my mum dad or sister or something they would flip out.
Needs to be fixed man. Its even happened under duress.. which is fucked cause it was only under low speed conditions (10-50KM/H) before with low revs (<3500rpm).. it happend at around 70KM/h in 2nd gear..
dave-r
01-08-2011, 04:02 PM
I've had it do it to me twice while turning across multiple lanes of traffic, farken dangerous. Exact same deal, under 3500rpm, 2nd gear going to 3rd and not high speed. Dealer said they've never heard of it, have no fix and aren't aware of any DSG updates to suit the car so only option was to be able to prove it to them.
I figure when there is another car stuck in my pillar, I'll smack their fucking head in the proof.
I've had it do it to me twice while turning across multiple lanes of traffic, farken dangerous. Exact same deal, under 3500rpm, 2nd gear going to 3rd and not high speed. Dealer said they've never heard of it, have no fix and aren't aware of any DSG updates to suit the car so only option was to be able to prove it to them.
I figure when there is another car stuck in my pillar, I'll smack their fucking head in the proof.
Which dealer do you go to Dave? That's just BS! A mate of mine had this problem with his R. He sent it back to Barloworld Bayside for a DSG reflash. Problems went away.
I experienced that when I was on 60kph in D6, and then i floored it...gear kicked down, RPMs went up but gear didn't engage.
I experienced that when I was on 60kph in D6, and then i floored it...gear kicked down, RPMs went up but gear didn't engage.
This!
Hmm.. thats very wierd. I would wish it happened last week so I could agree, but it was a fine 22 degree day in Sydney, Bondi today.
Actually that very wierd CSR are you sure yours is functioning normally? How cold are we talking?
Dennis it seems perfectly normal, they warned me in cold weather it wouldn't work. I'd say from ~12 degrees down it won't open properly - this is due to the gas not being able to expand as much in the struts. It is happening more than I wished though, I guess I will only have this problem in winter and during the mornings / nights!
Clemente that does not sound right to me. The bit you say about the gas expanding or lack of in the cold might be, but my RVC seemed to work fine all through winter when it was around 8 degrees. It's only now that it's quite warm it doesn't work. I'm also going to assume it is designed to work in the colder European climate. I'd just be disappointed if you were getting fed stories.. 12 degrees and under seems a little odd. Less than 0 I'd understand. I wonder if anyone else has any feedback on this?
For what it's worth mine has started working again. :/
dave-r
02-08-2011, 10:26 AM
I don't buy the temp thing, what about in parts of Europe. The RVC wouldn't work like 9 months of the year lol
Exactly Dave, a little odd. Maybe try another dealer Clemente!
Ok so some feedback on my car, and its oil usage and fuel consumption.
So what's your car response now? and what fuel consumption on it? Very interest on it. I have no idea for break in as well.
Joy
Id have to say my car is running pretty well. Is it running better than other cars? Im not sure. But I know a STG1 bluefin got it making 350NM @4 wheels, on a very conservative dyno.
Oil consumption has been minimal. I am up to 10300KMs (nooooo - my newness!!).
Oil usage has been otherwise very good. Only put it in a little bit last week. For the first 9000KMs it didnt use a drop, quite literally as I checked it around 6-7 weeks ago.
I reckon when it got stupid cold in Sydney recently and the car didnt get the full warm up every morning, just for soft driving, it must of used a little then. Otherwise its been perfect.
Fuel economy went a bit woeful when it had used some oil in the last couple of weeks. The other thing is I'm currently running a little fuel test of my own. Originally I was getting around 390KMs(worst)-430KMs (best) with a full tank.
When I dropped/used a little oil, I was getting around 350KM only which was weird the first time!!
Anyway, I have topped up the oil. My car currently has a solid 1/3 tank left, maybe more like 2/5, and im up to 310KMs from memory. I have had air con on the whole time for this test. Mixed driving styles. Half and half (aggressive/highway).
Will report back with the final results, but its looking very good. Between the oil top up and the bluefin, I might get over 450 for the first time!
dyljoy
07-08-2011, 06:15 PM
nice~
Hey guys, so I got some runs done. First time in the R. There was some highlights and some dissappointment at first. So lets give the run down!
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj302/Boost-Juice23/Scan_Pic_Runs10001.jpg
This was my first run. It was with the STG 1 bluefin.
I was hopiing for a 13. I got it, but barely. Temp was around 15 degrees at the time. Launch didnt feel the best, but to be fair it was a descent run.
60 foot time was 2.213 and it was clocked at 100 MPH.
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj302/Boost-Juice23/Scan_Pic_Runs10002.jpg
So I wanted to see if there is a difference with stock and bluefin. Car is now reverted back to stock for this run. Completely f***ed this run. Couldnt get the launch contro to work.
So basically this is stock, with some hesitation added for good measure!
14.89 with only 98MPH and a 2.659 60 foot time!! Terrible! Still a 14 is what some V8s get so not to unhappy.
I decide to have one more go whilst stock.
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj302/Boost-Juice23/Scan_Pic_Runs10003.jpg
Temp is now around 12 - 12.5 degrees. Car gets a 2.120 60 foot time off the line, nails a 13.870!! This lifted spirits heaps. Dead stock with a custom boot install for audio, 13.87. It only managed to get a 99.16 MPH though.
Pretty happy with that. So I decided to have my last go with the bluefin, and see if I can redeem it a little :), cause the best I got with it was a 13.966!
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj302/Boost-Juice23/Scan_Pic_Runs10004.jpg
Temp is now 11.5 deg for my final run. Spirits are high after a 13.87 stock. Im not sure if the car needs to be run around first with the tune once reloading it. Lets find out! Launch was pretty good, but track was VERY sticky at the end of the night, so it almost bogged.. but it still managed a best time for the night of 13.709. Most impressive about it was that it was at a whopping 104 MPH!!
So my thoughts so far. Bluefin seems to be making the car quicker definitely. Really good power/torque for an otherwise dead standard car, and im happy with the trap speed with that last run.
Even though you tend to run slower later in the night after the car has been flogged, the slight drops in temp I feel definitely made a huge impact on reducing the times. It felt like very few degrees added a tenth to the time. Another thing to note I suggest running higher tyre pressure when the car is standard or so close to it, I think the 32/3PSI tyres could of been pumped to 36/38PSI and this might improve times a little as I think the car was bogging a little too much on this grippy surface. The other thing is my car is fully optioned, has the 19s and a custome boot install so I have definitely added some weight.
Lastly, I think with the right tyre pressures, a slightly colder single digit temp, and getting a bit more comfortable with the launch I should be able to get a 13.5XX, defintiely a 13.6.
Anyway thats it! Cant wait to get an exhaust and install the FMIC..and try again!
Cheers and enjoy!
dyljoy
11-08-2011, 01:35 AM
Good start~when will you do the 0-100km run? and I believe chipped will improve the performance for sure, and it should perform better after your exhaust and FMIC add up.
Hey thanks heaps dyljoy, best thing about it this run was it shows how much pull the little bluefin tune has, 104MPH is pretty good and was definitely the highlight for me as it one of the most important figures when considering a 400m run, or a cars accel power in general.
A 13.7 was great but I know given what I have mentioned above with the tyres psi/bit colder for my heavy set up that there might be a tenth or two in there! :) (dreaming? hahaha) If I can get out there when it is a nice 9 deg night or something and I set up for it properly, a low 13.6/high 13.5 just maybe could be on the cards.
but.. like everyone else who goes for a run.. I now want more powaa!!
Also Im not sure where I get this 0-100km/h measured?
For what its worth I used a brand new one of those G-Tech things with someone, and my car with 2 people in it on a warm night.. got a 5.57 with a stock set up apparently back in December..?
But I dont trust those things at all. :) If those times were legitimate, I would be excited cause it suggests that my stock R on a cold night with one person might nail a 5.4 or better..
But unfortunately, I know all to well that these are innacurate figures at best, because they also suggest my car would run a low 13 stock.. which it wouldnt. Dont believe any of those iPhone apps or little handheld things you buy off the internet. Just not reliable at all. They show a change, but even then its off.
You can get proper professional ones which cost a fortune but they are good, but havent met anyone with one. For me quarter mile is the go.. once I nail a 12.9 I'll be happy and know the car will get a <5.0 to 100KM/h.
Fab_R
11-08-2011, 06:51 AM
Nice work dennis...
with your switching of tunes, the ecu needs adaption time, which i guess varies somewhat.
usually 50-100k.
good results nonetheless mate, well done.
explicit
11-08-2011, 12:21 PM
~104mph, that's a flat/low 13 with a strong launch no problem.
Nice work dennis...
with your switching of tunes, the ecu needs adaption time, which i guess varies somewhat.
usually 50-100k.
good results nonetheless mate, well done.
Thanks heaps Fab.
~104mph, that's a flat/low 13 with a strong launch no problem.
explicit dont get my excited. :)
Thats the only thing about DSG, you cant really launch them properly. Its not really "launch" control.. more like "take-off-with-3000rpm" control.. they probably couldnt fit it on the button.
Although saying that, Parso seems to be able to change this LC without selling a DSG box package ;).
I say great for a stock/mild car, but once you get to the stage where the car is making some good power, dont know how long the DQ250 will last. Its not like a manual where you can feel it!
Even 4000-4500rpm Id be happy and you could almost call that LC.
zbeasty
11-08-2011, 07:05 PM
A 4000 launch should net you a low 2 maybe 1.xxx 60' which should net a 13.6. Just need to switch tunes :)
explicit
11-08-2011, 07:07 PM
even @ 3k rpm would be fine if you can get the programming to build about 1.5-1.8 bar of boost off the line. Anyone know what the oem boost level is @ launch control?
monza
12-08-2011, 01:34 AM
Great to see that there are true gains on your stage 1 bluefin. I'm running stage 2 bluefin on my R now. Am a very satisfied customer with Superchips UK. Prompt replies from the factory all the time. As there is no dragway in Singapore to begin with, the only performance indicator for me is 0 to 100km/h timings. Temperatures here range from 26 deg to 35 deg. Right now, I'm getting 4.9s from stage 2 with LC.
To do stage 3, I'll need to upgrade the intercooler and also fuel pump. Pockets are already burnt out! :(
Fab_R
12-08-2011, 09:53 AM
ooooww pump!!!
Now the dump!
stephen8512
12-08-2011, 07:54 PM
Nice Dennis! Where did you purchase from? ECS?
Took a couple of photos with my SGS2. Here is one of my ride so far. Unwashed so I still need to take one after a nice car cleaning sesson!
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj302/Boost-Juice23/2011-08-18005129-1.jpg
dyljoy
18-08-2011, 12:06 PM
Love it, Dennis
Want to go to runs tonight, but am pissed off I completely forgot yesterday and filled my car up FULL with petrol.. YEEEES!! Like nothing carrying a spare 50KGs with you when your trying to improve on time by a few 10ths!! ####!!
dave-r
07-09-2011, 03:00 PM
Dont be soft, just go!
dave-r
07-09-2011, 05:21 PM
LOL lets start with 12's :D
Lol no more light mods only Dennis, the horse has bolted now! We will just sit back and watch now :d but more pics mate!!
LOL lets start with 12's :D
Once I get an airfilter I will be running 10s, bypassing the whole 12s thing. :)
All my runs for the night will be posted shortly when this damn scanner finishes.
Lol no more light mods only Dennis, the horse has bolted now! We will just sit back and watch now :d but more pics mate!!
Lol I know man its starting to unfold - my wallet!
stephen8512
08-09-2011, 02:06 AM
screw the 10's....9.99 is where its at >D
Hey welcome back for another look at my runs down at WSID.
So I went to HiTech this week and got a dump pipe for my car. The system installed is a simple one.
It has the single pipe all the way through, and that is a 3 inch pipe that goes into the stock mid/rear muffler.
Instant feedback is that the car felt quicker, had heaps more down low and mid range, and it would make the most intense fart BRRRRUUUUUP on gear changes - with stock cat back. Completely changes the excitement levels. Quite as stock on cruising speeds. Mad fun on acceleration!
I took it down to WSID to see how much difference a DP makes on a pretty much standard car.
Im running the bluefin tune with it, I got the stg 2. BUT I dont have an CAI or any intake system or filter upgrade for that matter as the system suggests. I might go back to STG 1 cause it felt similar from memory but without any fuel cut out issues. I sometimes get the fuel cut out on the STG 2. TBH it feels like it would enjoy the STG 1 just as much for my mods I have now. I am going to DYNO this weekend, and confirm SAFE AFRs, and any power gains.
So. Ill try my best not to bore you, but i did 7 runs. All with the same tune as stated above. I didnt revert back toi stock this week at all cause I couldnt be bothered for this set of runs.
Disclaimer, my car has no other mods, except a DP and Bluefin! It launches with the normal 3200rpm launch. Temp was a medium 16.5 all night. On my last run the car said it was 16 even degrees. I am not expecting much because last time I went, the difference between the times my car made at 15 deg and then 11.5 deg was huge (13.996/100MPH plays 13.702/104MPH.)
OK! so onto the paperwork!
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj302/Boost-Juice23/Scan_Doc_RUNS_7_9_110001.jpg
First run then, 13.768 with nearly a 102MPH. Im not stoked. Im not really impressed. Im not disappointed too much.. maybe a little bit. I got faster on a cold night with just stg 1 and no DP. 60' time was nothing to write home about. Car felt flat on this run.. after the first 1/8, it just sort of trudged along.
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj302/Boost-Juice23/Scan_Doc_RUNS_7_9_110002.jpg
Everyone is right about the cruicalness of a good launch. A simple .10 difference at the 60' mark, translates to over .21 at the quarter mile. Stormin to a 13.493 at 103.19 MPH. Happy. Glad I did the mod.
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj302/Boost-Juice23/Scan_Doc_RUNS_7_9_110003.jpg
Maybe Ill get a better time think me.. pfft! Not this time. Launch felt good TBH but it just ddnt have the legs over the 2nd half this time. Temp is still around 16.5 but down at the track it feels a touch warmer. My heart breaks at the time.. but to swing it around I think last week I got a worst time of 14.8 and also a 13.996 with the STG 1 bluefin, so they do happen sometimes. ###$!!
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj302/Boost-Juice23/Scan_Doc_RUNS_7_9_110004.jpg
Didnt mind this run. Actually a nice time, and if the launch had been a 2.1XX I might have seen a 13.3XX. Never mind.
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj302/Boost-Juice23/Scan_Doc_RUNS_7_9_110005.jpg
Same temp, laucnh was good but car didnt feel that great just past the half way mark. Dont know just felt a little weaker going from 3-4. All good still a 13.652 better than anything I got last time in colder weather.
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj302/Boost-Juice23/Scan_Doc_RUNS_7_9_110006.jpg
FUCK ME!! This was going to be the one!! I got a 2.128 off the line, which was great for my shitty 3200rpm launches, and making good power by halfway, but as my car went to change from 3rd to 4th - It issed or slipped the fucken gear!! ARRRGH!!!!
It was absolutely fangin but the slip let it down it big time. You can see it nailed a 13.5.. But at a whopping 99MPH.. less than what i got when stock! Pretty much tells you the story of the slip. What actually happened from memory was that I remember hearing it agonsising over changing from 3rd to 4th then looking down at the tachos and seeing the revs hanging around 7Krpms - but from that 3-4tenths too long!! Then you heard it give in and find the gear and we were away again. Pheew!!
I want to get a decent time - not just a story of would have could haves farken.
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj302/Boost-Juice23/Scan_Doc_RUNS_7_9_110007.jpg
I would like to name this tune, the Bluecollar. Finish off the night with a low 13.4 and a respectable 103.85MPH over the quarter mile line.
Stoked and I knew the car had it in it.
Summary had a great night, and lots of fun as I always do at a track.
Next time I will make sure I dont fill up petrol just before I head down for some racing - dooooh!!!
I am goiing to take my car for the mandatory AFR and KW power check this weekend - and then look forward to sampling the other DP also from HiTech mufflers.
Lambros reckons there might be more in it, cant wait to find out either way.
After the DP trials are ended, I have the fuel pump and FMIC to install.
The FMIC I dont expect much except for the fact that summer is coming and it will help keep it a touch safer. Fuel pump should be interesting though :).
I am now wondering if the STG 1 tune with just a DP will run better than with this stg 2 map. Last night I went for a cruise and got the light showing up that says your catalytic converter has an issue.
The light is not flashing, so according to the manual, it doesnt neceessarily mean its from misfiring its probably just running rich (who knows really).
Also, in STG 2 Im peaking at around 25-27PSI before it is quickly bought back to 15PSI. I noticed the stock map allows for a spike to 19psi at best in stock mode before settling on 15psi, (even with DP installed) and then slwly winding back to 10psi as it gets high in the rev range.
flashed back to stock, and the issue has gone away, completely. and the car feels fun, knowing it so within its limits is funny. but I have to say when it was in STG 1 it felt friskier, as the limits above stock where only minor - instead of 19 it was about 21/22psi, and it comes back to 17 then settling just below that.
Once the cat went on it felt awesome. I think STG 2 map from bluefin really needs your HP fuel pump on, and some boost removed out of mid range. Otherwise it doesnt run as efficiently (the turbo), because too much boost and you start making LESS power. As seen by my runs last night. Low MPH. Im pumped for some good weather and STG 1 for next week.
Sounds like you need an APR tune :rolleyes:
dave-r
08-09-2011, 06:03 PM
Stupid question but what are the hardware requirements for a Bluefin Stage2? Can't just load a tune and hope for the best you muppet hehe
gh172
08-09-2011, 07:25 PM
A minimum of a highflow cat in combination with cold air induction, or a DP with the above.
If your having issues with your stage 2 map, you should contact bluefin.
Sounds like you need an APR tune :rolleyes:
lol
Stupid question but what are the hardware requirements for a Bluefin Stage2? Can't just load a tune and hope for the best you muppet hehe
Oooh ahh OOhh AAHH!! Monkey!!
Yeah I know, apparently though the plot thickens. hold ill explain down below
A minimum of a highflow cat in combination with cold air induction, or a DP with the above.
If your having issues with your stage 2 map, you should contact bluefin.
I have already mate they are fantastic guys to speak to. Our motor guys are bit 'ocka out here but these guys seemed like all class.
So here is the run down. Jamie who looks after the performance side of the tuning for bluefin spoke with me at some length a short time ago.
He stated that really for STG 2 you should have the HPFP running. I mentioned the boost pressures for stg 2 I was getting, and he mentioned they did seem a little high, but if its not fuel cutting its not doing any damage. He also said that once he upgrades me back to the STG 2, he will edit the map, removing the 02 sensor perhaps if needed due to the light from the high flow cat, but mre specifically pulling back some boost in the mid range if needed with the new equipement.
They gave STG 1 again, which Is what im going to take back down to the track next week, and run it again. Im sure there wil be a difference but we'll see what. It feels better but like I said let the slips talk. Im going to take for a wrap in about 15 mins.
They actually told me to leave stg 1 for now with just the DP, and once I have a HPFP and FMIC installed to contact him and they will customise the tune for me, so it all rund well.
With a DP, HPFP, FMIC, INTAKE Jamie said that the car should see a genuine 337HP. Nice! cant wait to put my shit on!!
On other news - After an amazing ordeal that regarding my rim, a new manager at my VW dealership called me today and said that my replacement rim (one off a demo) is finally here!! Sheesh.. about a 100 phone calls later and almost 2.5 months.. but hey. Its a nice rim!! :)
Shane Gordon at CCC artarmon seems like a genuine car enthusiast and professional.. the other guy.. not so much. I dont even remember his name. So pretty happy justice for me, and good wrap for them. i went through #### for it though but at least its gettng sorted.
gh172
08-09-2011, 08:12 PM
Let us know how it feels when you go back to stage 1. I have a Mk 5 GTI with cold air induction and a downpipe on the way. I was planning on going to stage 2 bluefin as well. I thought the HPFP was only required with stage 2+ .
Guess I'll have to call them myself before going ahead.
gh172
09-09-2011, 11:52 AM
I've read about stage 2+ on the UK forums even though it doesn't mention it on the bluefin website. Basically stage 2+ just adds the HPFP.
From what you've said, it sounds like it might be worth staying stage 1. Having said that, I doubt I'll be able to resist trying stage 2!
Glad to hear your happy with your car, I assume you won't be going back to stage 2?
I'll definitely try it out again, but I'll wait till I got the HPFP installed. He mentioned with all the mods I got I could go onto STG 3 possibly, and the car will be mamking around 337HP with the stg 3.
Thats an air intake, DP, FMIC, HPFP. cant wait. He actualy made (Jamie) a special note about the FMIC being pretty important too so look for one OS and get it a bit cheaper!
gh172
11-09-2011, 07:28 PM
I'll definitely try it out again, but I'll wait till I got the HPFP installed. He mentioned with all the mods I got I could go onto STG 3 possibly, and the car will be mamking around 337HP with the stg 3.
Thats an air intake, DP, FMIC, HPFP. cant wait. He actualy made (Jamie) a special note about the FMIC being pretty important too so look for one OS and get it a bit cheaper!
FMIC is definitely next on my list. Just have to work out which one to go with.
Guys just a question.. when I ran STG 1 (and 2 before), I got the light that comes on that tells you your cats arent working (or you have gotten a high flow DP installed!). So when I flash back to stock, the light goes away.
I spoke with bluefin and Jamie told me that the tune I installled actually didnt have the 02 sensor delete. This makes sense, if you turn off the monitoring of the fumes your not going to activate it? Simple.
What I want to ask, is this what your tune does (insert ANY tune feedback). Does the Giac Apr Revo etc all do this? is it very safe?
I know on my MY09 WRX it did this when I got the exhaust installed (on a stock car at the time) but it was becuase the cat was mounted incorrectly with regard to the sensor.
Feedback, experience, opinion? really welcome any of the tuners to have a go too,
Cheers
On other news, I got my rim replaced and was pretty happy about that finally being over. On the other hand, i asked for the rattle in the overhead light part to be fixed, and its now ten times worse and physically and visually worse than it was, so I dont know how the mech decided that the work is done. before it just vibrated annoyingly, now it actually moves around and rattles. Also, on my dash on passangers side, the Silver R plate, rattle like CRAZY. A car with a full on exhaust pulled up next to me, the rattling sounded like the glove box was going to break. Its the same when driving on freeways.. man my GFs MPS from 2009 still doesnt have a rattle!! Gotta get it sorted without looking like a mad man!
zbeasty
19-09-2011, 09:14 PM
There are 2 O2 sensors on the R. The first is used for monitoring AFR's and the second only seems to monitor the flow of exhaust gas after the cats. The reason that this is now throwing a code is that with a high flow cat it thinks that you have actually blown the cat because there is more gas coming passed than it expects. Turning the second sensor off won't cause any issues. Turn the first one off and the car won't run.
There are 2 O2 sensors on the R. The first is used for monitoring AFR's and the second only seems to monitor the flow of exhaust gas after the cats. The reason that this is now throwing a code is that with a high flow cat it thinks that you have actually blown the cat because there is more gas coming passed than it expects. Turning the second sensor off won't cause any issues. Turn the first one off and the car won't run.
Thanks for that zbeasty!
I want to run it around first to make sure it's good, but bluefin just sent me a stg 2 map to use with my stock car and DP.
Man the car feels quicker, than stg 1 and DP combined. Picks up way quicker now unbelievable the difference. Honestly feels like 20kws @wheels. Which is massive if it's genuine KWs.
wooduck
30-11-2011, 11:06 AM
With a DP, HPFP, FMIC, INTAKE Jamie said that the car should see a genuine 337HP. Nice! cant wait to put my shit on!!
Dennis,
Put it on a Dyno. Mine made 283 4WHP.
John
Lucas_R
30-11-2011, 12:15 PM
Dennis - have you had your R dyno'ed yet? I would be very interested to know how much power its putting out with the Stage 1 Bluefin and downpipe.
My R made 186kw a few weeks ago with Bluefin stage 1 and VW Racing intake. Wonder how much more (roughly) i could expect from a downpipe and hi flow cat. Another 10-15kw mabye would be good.
And if you dont mind me asking, how much was your custom downpipe?
Thanks for that zbeasty!
I want to run it around first to make sure it's good, but bluefin just sent me a stg 2 map to use with my stock car and DP.
Man the car feels quicker, than stg 1 and DP combined. Picks up way quicker now unbelievable the difference. Honestly feels like 20kws @wheels. Which is massive if it's genuine KWs.
With a DP, HPFP, FMIC, INTAKE Jamie said that the car should see a genuine 337HP. Nice! cant wait to put my shit on!!
Dennis,
Put it on a Dyno. Mine made 283 4WHP.
John
That is pretty good John. I'm assuming 337 HP would be about 240+WHP.
Dennis - have you had your R dyno'ed yet? I would be very interested to know how much power its putting out with the Stage 1 Bluefin and downpipe.
My R made 186kw a few weeks ago with Bluefin stage 1 and VW Racing intake. Wonder how much more (roughly) i could expect from a downpipe and hi flow cat. Another 10-15kw mabye would be good.
And if you dont mind me asking, how much was your custom downpipe?
Those are some fantastic numbers, almost too good. Not to be green eyed monster but take it to a track and do some quarter mile runs. The best I managed was 13.430 so far. Was a warm night but still. At the time my car as a stg 1 with nothing made 155kws at wheels. I believe the dp made about 10-15 more. Don't know if intake makes much difference tbh. Sounds great but maybe 5hp tops on a dyno, touch more on the road.
I will find out soon as I got an intake coming, and the DP, FMIC, RS4 valve, HPFP, are all on! Waiting for super chips to send me stg3.
I've read about stage 2+ on the UK forums even though it doesn't mention it on the bluefin website. Basically stage 2+ just adds the HPFP.
From what you've said, it sounds like it might be worth staying stage 1. Having said that, I doubt I'll be able to resist trying stage 2!
Glad to hear your happy with your car, I assume you won't be going back to stage 2?
Yes do it, STG 2 from bluefin does work on a stock car with DP fine. I got a revised map and it was awesome.
I am now waiting for my stg 3 and should be good to go..
Dennis - have you had your R dyno'ed yet? I would be very interested to know how much power its putting out with the Stage 1 Bluefin and downpipe.
My R made 186kw a few weeks ago with Bluefin stage 1 and VW Racing intake. Wonder how much more (roughly) i could expect from a downpipe and hi flow cat. Another 10-15kw mabye would be good.
And if you dont mind me asking, how much was your custom downpipe?
Sorry hope my initial response wasnt too wierd, but it appears that your car made 31KWs@wheels, ON TOP of what mine did, with the same mods - bar the air filter. Massive difference and either mine is low or yours is high and me being a cynical mother ### took option a).
Hey Dennis,
Interested in Keyless entry for the Golf R??? BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAAH
Your a clown!
Hey Goz man, yeah why not?!?! Its pretty awesome right?! You dont even need your keys! :cool:
That was bad man.. HAHAHAHAH
Dennis your pm box is full mate, basically all I was going to reply to u though was... Lmao I had to do it. He hee
Tell me about it! Makes ya sick
Hows the car going? Nothing has fallen off yet?
Hows the car going? Nothing has fallen off yet?
Really good work Goran thank you man.
Bump for an night owls opinion.
I looked up the code, there is a lot of thoughts on it. General consensus is that it is the code that comes on due to a cat issue. But I didnt get a light up on the dash, I just checked it manually to look for anything due to the air flow readings.
Bluefin man Michael thinks its the maf sensor when he looked at my logs. Its just way too up and down.
Boost is a bit jumpy as well, not in feeling but going over the data.
Air flow maps I just peeked at and they do seem a little too dynamic.
Fucken depressed. Ran a 13.422@102.4mph then another 13.422@101mph, now a 13.5 @104mph.. All slower than the when I had the stg 1 bluefin and dump pipe, and I now have a APR HPFP, FMIC AND RS4 valve on top. Man the gears keep slipping, 2-3 and 3-4 fucken killing me. Fuck DSG.
You have stock DSG and the gears are slipping? :(
Yeah.. I've run a best of 13.38@102mph, 1.96 60 ft time.. Then by half track I'm getting 128km/h... I was running 132km/h when I was almost stock..? Does yours slip at all teff?
On a side note, met Robin and Ben. Ben did good with a 13.2 and Ferret ran a 12.7 which was very good.
But yeah for my car definitely not feeling any joy.
wooduck
15-12-2011, 10:01 AM
Fucken depressed. Ran a 13.422@102.4mph then another 13.422@101mph, now a 13.5 @104mph.. All slower than the when I had the stg 1 bluefin and dump pipe, and I now have a APR HPFP, FMIC AND RS4 valve on top. Man the gears keep slipping, 2-3 and 3-4 fucken killing me. Fuck DSG.
Come on Dennis get a move on !!!
Parso
16-12-2011, 12:05 AM
Dennis your only running a pretty low amount of boost. I saw a spike of I think 21 psi but most of the time the boost is sitting pretty much on 20 which is what has been specified in the tuned file also its bringing the boost in slowly. I still have those logs to send you when you PM me you email addr. I doubt its the DSG slipping. Oh I will add that the tune is very safe re knock and fueling
Maybe when you get the logs send them to Superchips and see if they'll work on it a bit
I still have to sort Robs car out too it will be a lot quicker when I finally sort that top end thing I wish I could have been there to log a couple of things :( bloody cars :)
golfr20t
16-12-2011, 09:02 AM
Nice to meet you Dennis, tried to find you to say bye but couldnt find you.
My last run was also 13.2, my peak boost on the P3 was showing about 17.3psi. The DSG felt funny on the night, even though I was driving in manual mode, on the first 3 gears, felt like a constant surge (similar to CVT),
cant really explain it but couldnt change gear manually.
Really cant wait to wack this actuator in and getting Parso to tune.
Yeah.. I've run a best of 13.38@102mph, 1.96 60 ft time.. Then by half track I'm getting 128km/h... I was running 132km/h when I was almost stock..? Does yours slip at all teff?
On a side note, met Robin and Ben. Ben did good with a 13.2 and Ferret ran a 12.7 which was very good.
But yeah for my car definitely not feeling any joy.
zbeasty
16-12-2011, 05:51 PM
Guys, bit of advice if you want a quick time and are running DSG. Put it in sport and use LC. For whatever reason the changes are much faster when using LC thann when you don't. In my car it made 1s difference over the quarter and you can feel a definite difference in the gear changes. Without LC it does feel like it slips between changes.
Dennis your only running a pretty low amount of boost. I saw a spike of I think 21 psi but most of the time the boost is sitting pretty much on 20 which is what has been specified in the tuned file also its bringing the boost in slowly. I still have those logs to send you when you PM me you email addr. I doubt its the DSG slipping. Oh I will add that the tune is very safe re knock and fueling
Maybe when you get the logs send them to Superchips and see if they'll work on it a bit
I still have to sort Robs car out too it will be a lot quicker when I finally sort that top end thing I wish I could have been there to log a couple of things :( bloody cars :)
Hey mate cant thank you enough for all your help trying to find out whats wrong with my car.
Here is a copy fo what i wrote in the MKVI thread, but basically yes it was the gears. mech has been replaced. I also found out, the reason the car was running like a dog, is because the DSG was in some sort of limp mode.
Copy: Its amazing how you notice some things on these threads after they happen to you.
1. I always wondered why my gear selection on the MFD never came up. I just thought it was a computer glitch. As some people may have read, I have had gearbox issues since I bought the car. But recently it was getting really bad, my car was running rough as guts rich, and sounding like a pig. not happy for the second love of my life.
Then the terrible started happening. I would accelerate, and the car would stall up and not go anywhere. Or it would go somewhere but not so fast (stall up?). Then when you would floor the car, from 2nd to 3rd, 3rd to 4th it would slip and couldnt grab the next gear. Then the engine started running rough. My mind didnt extend to the problem being DSG only. I thought the whole car/engine was shutting down.
The other thing which made it difficult was that this was all occuring since the car was new, pretty much from the get go, till now, so it becomes harder to notice the issues as being real, when the car gets worse at a slow gradual rate. You get to the current stage and you ask yourself "is my car fucked or am I tripping?" and only when it gets fixed do you realise how badly your car was fucked.
For the record, first service, mech replaced. car always warmed up and treated well.
I have to say.. how about that fuel economy!?! Amazing now. i alwyas thought people were full of it shit when they would say they would get 500KM to a tank on a freeway as I could barely manage 330KMs by the end of it (car in its current state). When it was new it got on at 430-odd doing highways KMs. Then it just got worse from there. By 3000KMs my fuel economy was getting worse not better.
Changed and the car and DSG are pretty good. Ill check it out and see how it goes going forward.
Nice to meet you Dennis, tried to find you to say bye but couldnt find you.
My last run was also 13.2, my peak boost on the P3 was showing about 17.3psi. The DSG felt funny on the night, even though I was driving in manual mode, on the first 3 gears, felt like a constant surge (similar to CVT),
cant really explain it but couldnt change gear manually.
Really cant wait to wack this actuator in and getting Parso to tune.
hey Ben nice to meet you too mate. As you might see above, the car ran a 13.38 with a stuffed gearbox.. cant wait to see what happens now. I think you should really check yours out too if you get a chance. As I mentioned above, cause you have the car for a long time, and the problem sometimes happens slowly, over time, you dont notice just how bad it has gotten. (If it is the gearbox). My car feels better now.
Guys, bit of advice if you want a quick time and are running DSG. Put it in sport and use LC. For whatever reason the changes are much faster when using LC thann when you don't. In my car it made 1s difference over the quarter and you can feel a definite difference in the gear changes. Without LC it does feel like it slips between changes.
Great point champ. I will have to try that when im down there next.
Parso
31-12-2011, 01:27 PM
Good to see you got it fixed. I can tell you though when we logged it that day it wasn't in a limp mode of sorts but that may have been because you had recently flashed it which would have cleared the fault temporarily until the DSG went awol again.
gh172
31-12-2011, 03:58 PM
Did you have any problems getting the DSG fixed under warranty?
What mods? Car is stock. Everything got returned to stock. And will be from now on.
Also, another thing for me was, I have had these issues since buying the car. I had taken it into 3 dealers a combined 5 times over this same and only problem, over the first 11.5 months of ownership whilst dead stock. Its not a new problem. I have documented it when I had only 1000KMs on the car, back in Dec 2010. I then took it back for gears slipping @3000KMs. Again @6K. Then @9.5K (Bad) and lastly at 15K. Ages ago started its journey downhill.
It wasn't the exhaust and as I mentioned I have pretty solid (legit)proof of that.
gh172
31-12-2011, 06:42 PM
Not doubting that your issues were there from the start and your warranty claim was completely genuine.
RSmiling
31-12-2011, 07:28 PM
removed post
Hey guys unfortunately the change of the mech unit didnt do the trick. My service centre is an absolute champion though and has plenty of car modding experience. Clutch packs next.. but concerns are about the wastgate. Havent enjoyed my car for what must be 3+ months. Hopefully will be fixed soon. I get soured really quickly though, and am wondering if leaving my rattle-less Subarus behind was ever a really good idea. So much so that I might be jumping ship when it all gets sorted. I dont know, I love my car.. but the whole "its German" thing wears thin when it has more rattles than my 5 year old $40K WRX. I dont know.
Stop your whining or you will end up like you cousins back home!!! Next time buy a Manual!!! :P
Btw, what rattles do you have? If the marbles up in your head can be heard then you havnt got the music up loud enough!!!
Sorry champ...in all seriousnous, what rattles are you experiencing?
Lucas_R
01-02-2012, 05:26 PM
Sounds like you have had some horrible luck with the DSG gearbox mate. Any chance of getting a replacement gearbox under warranty? Seems common-ish that some DSG's fail early on or are faulty from the get go. It's definetly not something that you should have to put up with in a brand new car with warranty.
The DSG issues ive heard about are one of the reasons why i got manual - but you paid $2,000+ for the gearbox so id be hitting VW up quick smart for a solution.
Hey guys unfortunately the change of the mech unit didnt do the trick. My service centre is an absolute champion though and has plenty of car modding experience. Clutch packs next.. but concerns are about the wastgate. Havent enjoyed my car for what must be 3+ months. Hopefully will be fixed soon. I get soured really quickly though, and am wondering if leaving my rattle-less Subarus behind was ever a really good idea. So much so that I might be jumping ship when it all gets sorted. I dont know, I love my car.. but the whole "its German" thing wears thin when it has more rattles than my 5 year old $40K WRX. I dont know.
Slightly off topic, but Goran, have you run your car down the 1/4 mile yet? If so, what times are you getting with the manual gearbox? All the 1/4 miles times ive ever seen are with DSG's with plently doing low to mid 12 seconds. Wondering how close the manual R's are.
Stop your whining or you will end up like you cousins back home!!! Next time buy a Manual!!! :P
Btw, what rattles do you have? If the marbles up in your head can be heard then you havnt got the music up loud enough!!!
Sorry champ...in all seriousnous, what rattles are you experiencing?
Sounds like you have had some horrible luck with the DSG gearbox mate. Any chance of getting a replacement gearbox under warranty? Seems common-ish that some DSG's fail early on or are faulty from the get go. It's definetly not something that you should have to put up with in a brand new car with warranty.
The DSG issues ive heard about are one of the reasons why i got manual - but you paid $2,000+ for the gearbox so id be hitting VW up quick smart for a solution.
Slightly off topic, but Goran, have you run your car down the 1/4 mile yet? If so, what times are you getting with the manual gearbox? All the 1/4 miles times ive ever seen are with DSG's with plently doing low to mid 12 seconds. Wondering how close the manual R's are.
Hey mate $2.5K + LCT!! lol yeah Ive got a good man on the job so will be sorting it out soon. ####en has not been the best start.
Stop your whining or you will end up like you cousins back home!!! Next time buy a Manual!!! :P
Btw, what rattles do you have? If the marbles up in your head can be heard then you havnt got the music up loud enough!!!
Sorry champ...in all seriousnous, what rattles are you experiencing?
Honestly if I have to see one more shot of you in your shorts in that driveway im going to have even rattles. Like the Serbs can talk man!!
The whole car was creaking and VW tightend it all up (all four doors) but now whats left over is that ####en light cluster above your head when your driving - just.. does... not.. stop RATTLING and its fucken cracking me!! German!? Sure its not a KIA!?
LOL...listen my Greek friend, the shorts and wearing socks with slippers are part of my strict OH&S guidlines when working on cars in the driveway, it is the Balkan Autotech uniform of choice!!
Btw, don't knock Killed In Action Automobiles...they are looking really good these days and apparently their quality is extremely good too!!! I can't believe i actually wrote that but i give credit where credit is due...Maybe having the former Audi head designer on board had something to do with it... ;)
Btw, has Greece defaulted yet? :>
Parso
02-02-2012, 10:25 AM
Hit up Lambro for a 4" cannon muffler and your annoying rattle problems are history
/close thread
Hit up Lambro for a 4" cannon muffler and your annoying rattle problems are history
/close thread
Mark, how many people have you offended so far this morning? Im trying my best but no one is biting...Everyone has learned to ignore me!! lol
Parso
02-02-2012, 10:28 AM
I haven't mentioned the G word ....yet, so I dont think any of the GT's will be offended
Slightly off topic, but Goran, have you run your car down the 1/4 mile yet? If so, what times are you getting with the manual gearbox? All the 1/4 miles times ive ever seen are with DSG's with plently doing low to mid 12 seconds. Wondering how close the manual R's are.
I still havn't finalised the tune on mine but i can tell you now, our times won't compare with DSG times. What we have that DSG drivers don't is skill, finess and smiles when we drive our reliable stick shifts! Like comparing a freshly cooked gourmet meal that requires skill to a microwave dinner...Yes the Microwave dinner is quicker but it is boring and bland!
The whole car was creaking and VW tightend it all up (all four doors) but now whats left over is that ####en light cluster above your head when your driving - just.. does... not.. stop RATTLING and its fucken cracking me!! German!? Sure its not a KIA!?
I've got that rattle too. Strange though how it goes away on sunny days when I put my shades on
I've got that rattle too. Strange though how it goes away on sunny days when I put my shades on
I cant belive you have glasses that fit in that little thing. Maybe i got a massive head.
I still havn't finalised the tune on mine but i can tell you now, our times won't compare with DSG times. What we have that DSG drivers don't is skill, finess and smiles when we drive our reliable stick shifts! Like comparing a freshly cooked gourmet meal that requires skill to a microwave dinner...Yes the Microwave dinner is quicker but it is boring and bland!
man are we here to make dinners or tear up track.
I haven't mentioned the G word ....yet, so I dont think any of the GT's will be offended
greeks, who like GTs.. na RE!!
LOL...listen my Greek friend, the shorts and wearing socks with slippers are part of my strict OH&S guidlines when working on cars in the driveway, it is the Balkan Autotech uniform of choice!!
Btw, don't knock Killed In Action Automobiles...they are looking really good these days and apparently their quality is extremely good too!!! I can't believe i actually wrote that but i give credit where credit is due...Maybe having the former Audi head designer on board had something to do with it... ;)
Btw, has Greece defaulted yet? :>
HAHAHAHAAH
And yes pretty much done over by now. hows the german head going though.. stepped down due to corruption alligations?
Thats right I found my thread not just to have a laugh but to give an update on my high quality german vehicle.
So i have had the clutches replaced, and have not been able to give it a punt as I have been told 500-1000KMs to wear them in.
To be fair the car feels heaps better already, just gets through the gears briskly without stuttering now, so its helped.
The problem that i had before that i can still see is, even when coming to an almost complete dead stop! (say 20km/h rolling for 20 meters before stopping at a red light or something, the cars fuel consumption reads as high 42-45l/100km - no accelerator is being applied!!.. then once I completely stop it settles to its normal 1.2lt/100km.
I havent booted the car yet so i cant say if the boost leak thingymebob (technical) is still there, but the fuel consumption thing is.
keep you posted. Could it be: wastegate, diverter valve, anything else.
Which ones the diverter vlve can i check it?
Lucas_R
05-03-2012, 09:26 AM
The diverter valve is right at the front of the engine in the centre in between the engine and the radiator. It has a rubber tube (about 25mm diameter) coming up into the bottom of it, and another rubber tube (same diameter) which you can follow to the intake just after the MAF sensor.
Thank you Lucas! Tomorrow I will check. What tools you need? I am going to have to buy them since I have jack at my place. I am only too happy to though.
Unrelated, are the Michelin Super Sports the shit?! Can anyone think of a better tyre?
wooduck
06-03-2012, 09:35 AM
Unrelated, are the Michelin Super Sports the shit?! Can anyone think of a better tyre?
They are. I have them as does Sammy and a few others. On Tire rack @ USD$260ea or there abouts.
Thats where Im at.. I only started researching when i got told tyres for our car are worth $650.. i was thinking, thats not bad for a set of four.. Then it realised it was going to cost me $2300 to
buy rubber for my car with 17000KMs on it. HAHAH.. yeah Tirerack does it for $1480US then add taxes (which are worked out 5% on invoice{without shipping}, then 10% on that new amount
{with shipping}) so its about 1650-1700US. Perfect. Well not really.. but its better than $2300.
17000KMS!!
are they better than the stock tyres? Loud/ grippy?
Does anyone know what size TORX screw I need to get the diverter valve off?
wooduck
06-03-2012, 10:52 AM
Super Sports are one of the highest rating tyres that Tire Rack sell. I'm buying a second set now while the dollar is good.
Ok its a T35 that you need. Some interesting stuff I found. Will post when I can get round to posting photos. And no problem not solved. Car is booked in to have a look at. Im getting fuel consumption as high as 45l/100KMs whilst being in at a set of red lights.. then it will go to zero, then go up and back to zero. Im very excited at the idea of the car getting fixed once and for all. ive had it like this since around november, im aware im going on a bit, try and understand my pain and hopefully the solution helps someone else out.
Thanks for that Wooduck! Im going to look into them for sure. I actually even like the tyres I have now (stockas) so these should be great.
And an update on my car.
As I posted in another members ride thread, pretty much the consensus is that I have had the mech unit and the clutch packs replaced. They have changed the car for the better. The fuel economy has improved a lot. When driving like a herman on a freeway I can get 500KMs. I reckon if I did High way only, I could get 600kms.
Now, so hows the gear situation going?
Basically the clutch and mech have stopped the false neutrals, and also stopped the heavy slipping I was getting at all RPMs. Plus 1 for VW finally!
Although now, I am getting some slippage again. I did my break in procedure of driving soft for 1000kms. Now the car pulls great from about 4000rpms upwards. What is still happening though is quite strange.
I'll try and describe the circumstances and what I mean. I did ask the question in Rudy's thread, but again:
I had my mech unit replaced, and also the clutch packs. car feels good. My woeful fuel economy has gone back to good. So the changes definitely made my car better. Only thing is, a) when cruising in a higher gear (3rd and above) and give it half or more throttle (3/4, not fully floored), you can hear the car bleeding boost... its like lots of little and very quick sssssss (spool)-then-psh(vent) ssss-psh sssss-psh's.. all together between 2500 and 4000rpms. And you can also hear the exhaust following suit. Its like the clutches are slipping in the mid range and the exhaust note waves in labour for a second or two.
b) If you floor it it goes hard and does not bleed. I haven't tested 5th and 6th gear to see but up until 4th is ok.
c) Someone mentioned to me that it could be the car just shedding excess boost in the mid range to save the DSG?
Is any of this shit true? Dos my car have Viton seals or is just upgraded cars? Cause I am definitely copping slip, but only at certain times. If you can please add whatever you know in my thread if you don't want to spam this one - very keen for the info mate
So car is better, but there still seems to be some issues? Maybe the mech unit is no good? maybe its the seals?
Anyways as promised here are some finds that might help anyone not wanting to bust open their bonnet:
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj302/Boost-Juice23/IMG_0373.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj302/Boost-Juice23/IMG_0374.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj302/Boost-Juice23/IMG_0376.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj302/Boost-Juice23/IMG_0375.jpg
So it looks like we DO have the metal spring DV, not the rubber diaphragm one in the R.
And some mods :) :
Got the intake and engine cover, both Neuspeed. Installed them myself finally, yesterday.
I am so excited the car makes that little flutter sound like when I had the Greddy on the Skyline - soooo addictive! I cant believe how much more fun the car feels now. Some people hate it but I was pretty stoked when I started the car, went for a drive and realised I could get that turbo flutter. Cover is real carbon fibre and gives the bay a clean look, but to be honest I would have been ok with just the intake, it still looked good with just the raw engine block (of plastic :] )
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj302/Boost-Juice23/IMG_0530.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj302/Boost-Juice23/IMG_0528.jpg
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