Pirelli Intercooler

[Capercat]

I found this Forge "Edition 30" Intercooler on their website, they claim it's designed especially for the edition 30.

I assume the edition 30 is our "Pirelli" model in OZ?? How will the standard Forge MKV intercooler fit on the Pirelli?

http://www.forgemotorsport.com/content.asp?inc=product&cat=0013&product=FMINTED30

[10d]

I think Paolo got this on his beast.

[Paolo]

sorry 10d i have BSH which is a stand alone intercooler and leaves the current intercooler as deadweight... =( I am not sure why there is a specific intercooler for the ED30 or Pirelli cars since they have the same set up in that section of the car, maybe its to accommodate for the extra power i dunno? and yes the ED30 is pretty much the Pirelli for Australia >D Ian should be able to answer this thou

[mshl1979]

Caper... you've been asking alot of questions around the Pirelli lately??? something on your mind??? The Cayman starting to get boring?

[mshl1979]

Bringing this thread up.... Noticed the specific intercooler for the ED30 as well while I was shopping for a intercooler. Doesn't Deancorp have this in his car maybe he can shed up some light on the topic.

Only thing that I can think of is that it needs to be specific as the piping on the Forge goes back to the Ed30/pirelli intercooler (being a twincooler and all that). According to Mav's site the Pirelli/Ed30 intercooler is slightly smaller than the S3 but bigger than stock GTIs. This could potentially be the reason.

[DeanCorp]

I have the forge one. It took me almost a month to get my Forge Twintercooler as there was so much confusion from Forge UK & US in regards to the Pirelli. Basically, what I discovered is ED30 and Pirelli are slightly different. Pirelli and MK5 although they have different intercoolers the end tips are the same (black plastic hoses). The ED30 has the same hoses as the S3 intercooler hence why they need the FMINTED30 because of the metal pipes. Hope this makes sense.

I have attached a picture below to show you what I mean:

http://img696.imageshack.us/img696/2408/endtanks.jpg

[DeanCorp]

Yet I am still confused because when you look at the part number for the ED30 intercooler on Maverick's site it still shows the same end pipes as the Pirelli & MK5 (Black plastic). I am thinking Forge themselves are confused and the silver ends are ONLY for the S3.

[mshl1979]

Potentially the US / UK Spec Ed30 are different to OZ? (Oz being designated hot climate place).

[Capercat]

Hence my original question to you Pirelli experts.

[DeanCorp]

Hence my original question to you Pirelli experts.

I've already answered it, what more do you want??

YOU DO NOT NEED THE ED30 IF YOU HAVE A PIRELLI BECAUSE THE END TANKS ARE THE SAME AS ON THE MK5 GTI THEREFORE YOU SHOULD BUY THE FMINTMK5

[Tim]

I've already answered it, what more do you want??

YOU DO NOT NEED THE ED30 IF YOU HAVE A PIRELLI BECAUSE THE END TANKS ARE THE SAME AS ON THE MK5 GTI THEREFORE YOU SHOULD BUY THE FMINTMK5

haha Just cos you have a pirelli with a forge fmic you think you know everything :D

[DeanCorp]

haha Just cos you have a pirelli with a forge fmic you think you know everything :D

At least I have one ;)

[Capercat]

I think I'm coloured blind.

[DeanCorp]

YOU DO NOT NEED THE ED30 IF YOU HAVE A PIRELLI BECAUSE THE END TANKS ARE THE SAME AS ON THE MK5 GTI THEREFORE YOU SHOULD BUY THE FMINTMK5

There it is in black because it is not a colour rather, black is the absence of colors. It absorbs all frequencies of light. That means it does not emit any color.
If you're in a room with the lights out during the night, you're not seeing black everywhere, you're seeing the absence of light.

[Paolo]

i heard the s3 intercooler plus forge twintercooler is a mean set up!

[DeanCorp]

i heard the s3 intercooler plus forge twintercooler is a mean set up!

you heard right!

[Tim]

I read on the APR website that their intercooler was the best one?! Im confused now

[10d]

Guys, if I may shed some light. Before my APR FMIC, I ran the S3 FMIC. The reason I didn't get the Forge Twincooler is that it looks fiddly. Another set of pipe and hose makes me uncomfortable. More things to go wrong.

Anyone who see the APR FMIC will be surprised by it's size. And yet they still fit snugly in the oEM placement.

[MasterKevin]

Guys, if I may shed some light. Before my APR FMIC, I ran the S3 FMIC. The reason I didn't get the Forge Twincooler is that it looks fiddly. Another set of pipe and hose makes me uncomfortable. More things to go wrong.

Anyone who see the APR FMIC will be surprised by it's size. And yet they still fit snugly in the oEM placement.

agree with 10d APR intercooler is yummy :D

[Tim]

No-one has ever realeased good independant data in regards to what works best. If you read internet forums everyone is just barracking for their favourite team.

APR is too close the the radiator and not really a true front mount.
BSH leaves the stock intercooler in place which doesnt sit pretty with many people as they consider it dead weight.
VF and Forge use twin cooler setups. How much intercooler is too much? Does the stock cooler still do anything? Is it just an exercise in marketing? Id like to see some airflow tests that show what is going on where the intake path reconnects.

At the end of the day we are still playing with baby turbos and 300hp. You would probly see better gains from a good water/meth injection setup.

[Greg Roles]

For the record, many weeks with a science lab level digital logging thermometer immediately before and after the stock intercooler, probes in the airflow, I found the following in my GT TDI. Now it's far lower hp, but we're talking thermal load. Diesels push higher boost than normal petrol cars, thus demand more on average from the IC. I measure my boost spikes as 24psi at the far right of the inlet manifold runners to the head, so at the lowest place for boost in my opinion.

Here's the direct cut and paste of my findings over a few weeks ( in summer )

***I spent this morning shredding my arms putting a thermo probe just prior to the intercooler, and the second about half way from the intercooler outlet before the EGR circuit. Had to be these places as these we the only "normal" clamp spots where I could sneak a wire into the tubes.

Thus far on the drive in, which was quiet given a lot of traffic, I was pleased to see on a 27-28 degree day, the post intercooler temps remained about 8-10 degrees over this at about 35-38 degrees, and a few mid level 10-15psi squirts, which saw the before temps rise into the 70-80 degree range had virtually no effect post cooler. Early days, but seems the stock cooler handles normal traffic boost temps very very well.

Where it DID fall down, again early days, but on idling at a set of lights over 2 mins, the post temps rose into the 40's, and remanined there even after moving off. Perhaps the tubes themselves got hot, and the temp sensor is probably in direct contact, but at the lights it was interesting to watch the pre temps drop, and the post temps rise, as they headed towards equalling out.

Makes sense, but it was interesting that the post temps didn't drop back below 40 even after several minutes of quiet driving. Heat soak, and the lights particularily are things I'll keep an eye on!***

***Ok drive home. Driving along "normal" in traffic on a "about" 30 degree day, and 5-10 psi max, saw 70 degree pre cooler and 40 degree post. Drops to 37-8 post on moving. If you get a little spirited, and drive harder, at about 15psi maxes, you see 80 pre, about the same 40 degree post. This is where I'd figure most people would drive.

Up the nice little twisty mountain near home, where I can give it a 3rd gear flooring at the bottom and change into 4th for a bit, I saw 120 pre intercooler at the top, and the 40 degree post cooler at the bottom of the hill went to, wait for it.....42 degrees.

Seems the stock intercooler is handling spikes well, and running approx ten degrees over "ambient", before the EGR addition at least!****

***Today on a trip down the Gold Coast and back, same deal, the output of the cooler is in the high 30's on a 30 degree day, and spikes up to 100C pre cooler have no effect. Obviously there is great airflow at 100kph plus.

I'm convinced a water spray at heat soak times, especially idling for longer than a minute, and a fan to draw the mist in at the same time is the way to go. It seems there's just no need for a better IC for street driving in the MKV from these results.***


Adding specific alloy ducting to force far more air through the core had the typical driving difference approach zero, and only when stopped did it become heatosaked in any appreciable amount. BUT on driving off, with the ducting, the time to get back to "normal" was halved. Nascar style ducting made a HUGE difference. Highly recommended!!

I'm at the point of finalising a IC water spray activated by throttle and IC temps, and I believe this will cover all but track days in my car, and to be honest, I'd reckon in a Pirelli as well.

There's a LOT you can do to make the most of what you have, for a tiny amount of money, plus a bit of tinkering. Nice alloy sheet and alloy bracing was about $40 from Bunnings. See my build thread for pics.

I'll report on the spray effect, but I can already guess it'll be the end of any normal IC heatsoak woes.

water meth? - end of problem, forever. Just the ongoing hassle of topping it up.