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Thread: DIY: VW Golf MKV/MK5 door locked/stuck - FIX!

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    Senior Member *thad*'s Avatar
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    DIY: VW Golf MKV/MK5 door locked/stuck - FIX!

    OK first off the title. A bit strange I know but after many, many hours of research I found that several different word combos gave different results so tried to make it as generic as possible.
    As many people are aware there is a problem with the occasional VW door being stuck/locked closed. I had this recently and have collected a lot of good info and fixes.

    So your door is stuck, what now?

    1st set of steps.
    -Is the car under warranty? If so go to your dealer if not read on:
    -Contact your trusted dealer and see if you can get a good will repair. My car got approved (08 R32 ~12 months out of warranty) however you have to pay the labor for it to be fitted. Not bad considering a new unit is about $600 were as I got quoted $380 for the changeover. Good but I did find a USA seller which shipped brand new OEM units for ~$200 to your door.

    If neither of these are options for you or you want to try and get away with either a $3 or $0 fix continue on.

    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Ok the door is stuck closed and you need to get it open to fix it. There are a few tricks the MAY work.
    First one is to unlock the door (via either the remote or the button on the drivers door) and pull on a handle (either inside or out) at the SAME time. It may take a few goes for it to work so;

    Unlock & pull on handler > lock > unlock & pull on handler > lock > unlock & pull on handler > lock, etc.

    This worked for me and I was able to get the door open and continue to work for another few weeks before it stopped again.
    The other method is to give the door a small-ish hit just below the handle to jolt the unit. This one I didn't try but others have had success.
    If neither of these worked then I am sorry but it is to the dealer to get them to open it OR try and remove your internal trim somehow so you can drill a hole in the door to manually unlock it. This is, from I have been told, how the dealers get the door open.

    Update 6/8/12 - Another method!
    So my door locked again AND i couldnt get it open by the above and came up with this. Note it will only work on a 5 door car on only on the front doors (I did the passanger and assume the driver will be the same).
    Open the rear door so you can access the front door. Remove the black plastic trim from the front door that covers the bolts (see outer door skin removel photos) I used and allen key to slide in behind the trim and pull it out then slid it up to the roof to get it out. I put a small scatch on my door but that was me being in a rush for no reason.
    Once its off you can access the bolt that lets you remove the door handle (again refer to linked outer skin DIY).
    Once you have the door handle off you should be able to use a special tool 157 (or a screw driver) to move the RED lever to the RIGHT to unlock the car. It maybe a bit hard to see/access because there is a white cover over the unit but its worth a try.

    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Now that the door is OPEN its time to dismantle and fix the dam thing!

    So since there are so many good DIY’s already out there for most of these steps Ill just link them rather than making this one hell of a massive post.

    Tools you will need to do these two things are:



    T20 Torx
    T30 Torx
    T20 Torx allen key if you use the socket's like me. This is for when you remove the door handle as the socket style wont fit into the hole in the door.
    Small flat head screwdriver
    M6 Triple Square bit for removing the door lock from the door.

    Internal trim removal:
    http://www.golfmkv.com/forums/showthread.php?t=82260

    External skin removal:
    http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...r-Skin-Removal

    Ok you should now have the door stripped of the panels and access to its guts, thus looking like this from the outside.


    The white box on the top right is the door lock mechanism.

    First possible fix
    Push the plug into the unit. I have read some people say that this fixed their problem. Now test by getting a screw driver and push it into the latch as if you were closing the door. It should rotate as if connecting with the catch on the car. *NOTE: the door should still be open not closed on the car*


    Now check your MFD, does the door display show it open or closed? If closed then the micro switch for this is fine.
    Close the catch again and lock the door and if it locks correctly (pull on the handle) then the locking micro switch is fine. Now unlock and pull on the handle as if to open the door, the latch should move and you will hear the usual noise as if opening the door. If all this works test it several times, have a beverage of your choice then test some more. If it is still working then it looks as if your problem has been fixed! YAY!
    However before celebrating too much I would suggest continuing on to the other steps just to triple check it is all good and not having to go over the whole process (once opening the door again) a 2nd time.

    -Remove the door lock mechanism:

    You will have to undo the 2 triple square bolts that are next to the latch (B pillar side).

    Once undone lift unit up then out, it will come out a little way before the cable for the internal handle stops it. Pull the rubber bung out of its hole and feed the cable out with the unit and unplug the electrical plug.

    ****BIG NOTE: Be very careful around the blue impact sensor!!! This is for the side air bags and you don't want to set it off****


    You now have a door lock unit in your hot little (or big) hands.







    Now remove the electrical unit from the mechanical by undoing the single T20 screw (not the one on the red lever). There is a screw which is very small (t5-ish) that I drilled the head off because I didn’t have a small enough torx bit, your decision on how you handle that. There are two plastic catches’ that need unclipping before it comes a part.
    Remove this spring:


    Then you will have to sort of slide the two pieces a part then rotate the electrical bit off. It’s a bit hard to put into words but once you have it in your hands you will understand.


    You will now have the two parts attached to each other by 2 wires that are for the forth micro switch.


    Looking at the switch on the mechanical unit it is held in place by 2 tabs. With a small flat screw driver push the tabs out of the way and slide the micro switch out of the unit.
    Remove the cover on the electrical unit to access the circuit board by undoing the T10 screws (again leave the one on the red lever.).


    Second possible fix
    Look at the soldered connections for the blue connector. A few people have reported these to be "dry" or broken hence the unit not working. If this is the case then re-solder the joins and move onto checking the micro switches.

    Third possible fix
    If you lift the board out you will see the 2 micro switches.


    Get a multimeter that has a continuity function to test each switch.
    Each switch has 3 "legs", put one lead on one outer leg and the other lead on the other outer leg. It should sound if it doesn't then the switch is dead! If it does then put the lead onto the middle leg and press the switch (small button on top) this should make a sound. If it doesn't then put the lead on the other outer leg. Again if you get nothing then the switch is dead however if its works then move on to the next.

    First set.

    Second set.
    Follow this same process on the other micro switch. If both of these are fine now test the connection on the two leads from the 3rd that was attached to the mechanical unit.

    Ok now all this is done what has been achieved??
    -You have tested the connection in the door and it either worked or it didn't.
    -You have inspected the connections on the circuit board for the connector and
    -Checked the micro switches to see if they are working.

    If the switch/s are faulty move onto the second post to replace them.
    If all switches are fine and bord connection is good or fixed put it all back together, put it back in the door and TEST it again BEFORE closing the door!

    If it is STILL playing funny buggers;
    Forth possible fix
    If you have checked the unit and it still has problems it could be the loom in the door, this has also been known to fail. Check the loom at the point where it goes from the door to the car. Remove the cover and look at the wires. Some people have reported them being cracked and/or broken here. Fix the wires (re solder) or replace the loom.

    If the funny bugger have stopped (and after doing lots of tests);
    Close the door (before putting either the skin or trim on) and test it some more. lock>unlock>open>close>lock. do it a few times to make sure you are happy with it. Once you are happy that it is all working put the skin and trim on and enjoy a door that now does what it should!
    Last edited by *thad*; 06-08-2012 at 12:02 PM.
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    Senior Member *thad*'s Avatar
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    Right so now, if like me, you have found 1 of the 3 micro switches is stuffed (technical term) its time to replace it.
    More often than not I have found out that it is the door latch switch that is the problem (one with the wires).

    http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/foru...tch-36653.html

    The above is a link with part numbers (at the bottom, ignore the ebay one) for a replacement switch.
    SIAI-Burgess XCF3-Z1
    RS components stock number 4728162 (http://australia.rs-online.com)

    You will have to cut the wire's on the failed switch and solder them onto the new one then mount it and use hot glue to hold it in place. You want to use the NO contact and COM for the switch, but as always test once done before closing the door. At this stage this is the best option as it looks like the original switches are either discontinued or, and more likely, they can not be purchased by the general public. But hey for a couple of $$ plus free postage its worth a shot.*
    I have a few of these so send me a PM if you need any.



    The second type of micro switch can be see in this pic. There are two, one with left hand pins and the other with right hand pins.
    *replacement switch still being sourced for these I will update once i have one*
    It looks to be a Cherry DK series switch, DK1G-TRA0 for the RH pins and DK1G-ULA0 for the lh pins. These however do not seem to be available to the general public

    When looking at the photo the one furthermost away from the motors is to monitor the status of the "dead bolt" lock and the one closest the normal lock.

    Looking at this photo you can see how it all sits together. The silver motor on the right is the "dead bolt" motor which basically moves the white plastic underneath the circuit board into position so as the normal lock cant be moved. The white piece on top moves with it activating the micro switch.
    The motor on the left with the black band is the one that actually locks the door. As the slide moves it contacts the switch. This movement flicks a lever on the out side that moves the locking lever in the mechanical set up.


    Any questions please PM me for fastest response. Any members in WA I'm more than happy to help a little or a lot and if anyone else wants me to test there unit then I am happy to if you want to send them to me. Keep in mind you wont have a door lock for a week or so either.


    As a side note any passat owners that have the same problem look here:
    http://www.taligentx.com/passat/main...lockmechanism/

    or MKIV owners:
    http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...g-problems!!!-

    The MKIV one has photos of the dry/cracked solder joins if you wish to know what to look for.

    As with all DIY's i take no responsibility and its up to you to make sure you are happy to do it and check all part numbers are correct.
    *all pricing correct at time of writing and i take no responsibility if it changes.
    Last edited by *thad*; 06-08-2012 at 11:41 AM.
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    Senior Member April's Avatar
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    Wow Ross, that took a shit load of work to put all those instructions & pics together - nice one!

    We had a situation yesterday where the screen door inexplicably locked behind Andy when he went out to water the plants. (I maintain we have a ghost). Anyway the fix was straightforward. He stood there pathetically tapping at the glass until someone walked past
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    Senior Member *thad*'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by April View Post
    Wow Ross, that took a shit load of work to put all those instructions & pics together - nice one!

    We had a situation yesterday where the screen door inexplicably locked behind Andy when he went out to water the plants. (I maintain we have a ghost). Anyway the fix was straightforward. He stood there pathetically tapping at the glass until someone walked past
    HAHAHAHAHA, this however wouldnt work for me. I had a full car of people so had to get the door open on the spot.
    Trying to find a supplier for the 2nd style of micro switch so i can pull it all out again and fix it!
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    Super Moderator M4RK0's Avatar
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    Wow Ross! amaizing write up!,

    I hope this never happens to me!! after doing micro surgery to my headlight I'm not looking forward to do another one anytime soon!

    Thanks for the share!
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    Wow, awesome write up!
    That must've taken a lot of effort.

    Hope you find the micro-switch you're after.

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    Senior Member *thad*'s Avatar
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    All up its about 1h to stip, test, fix and put back together. worked out which switch i need and hopefully will order it today (if its in stock)
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    Senior Member *thad*'s Avatar
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    Updated and added a few new photo's.
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    Well done

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    Senior Member *thad*'s Avatar
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    Updated with triple square size and another way to open the door.
    Thanks for the positive vibes, first DIY write up so went over kill on it a bit.
    Need your bike serviced? Give me a bell.
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