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Thread: DIY: VW Golf MKV/MK5 door locked/stuck - FIX!

  1. #21
    Junior Member
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    Apr 2013
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    Trinidad and Tobago
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    Mk6 Jetta 1.4 TSI
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    26

    Quote Originally Posted by Cheken View Post
    Has anyone experienced when using the key fob all the doors lock but the door driver doesn't? I am stuck guessing at the moment but I have replaced the lock mechanism as I thought it was faulty but after replacement the door still doesn't lock.
    You can hear all the clicking as the door locks but the red catch part doesn't move to lock the door unlike all the other locks on the other doors where it does.

    Any ideas would be greatly appreciated

    Thanks
    I have a similar problem on a mk6 Jetta. Driver door won't lock with the remote but will lock if I physically use the key. All other doors lock with the remote.

    A scan with VCDS shows a driver door electrical fault. Have you done a scan yet?



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  2. #22
    Junior Member
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    Mar 2014
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    Tassie
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    TDI Jetta
    Name
    Allan Bennett
    Posts
    1

    My 2007 Jetta has the same door locks. So far those on three of the four doors have separately malfunctioned. Naturally this has all happened after the expiry of the 3-year warranty period. The affected door generally remains deadlocked, refusing to open in response to the internal door-handle, to the remote, or to the switch on the driver’s door, but on rare occasions deigning to respond normally.

    The first lock to go was that on the drivers door, but in this case it was fortunately still possible to release it by inserting and turning the key. Inexplicably, the problem with this lock eventually resolved itself and (touch wood) has never returned.

    Next, the lock on the right rear passenger door failed. Although I have a Bentley service manual which describes how to replace the door-lock, I decided not to attempt this, but to let the service techs at the dealership where the car was bought do so, given their previous experience of the task and because it appeared a special service tool (VW T10118) was needed to correctly reattach a spring to the release lever of the lock. The work wasn’t entirely satisfactory. The lock released OK in response to the remote, but it was then difficult to open the door with the external handle. And, when the external door panel was reinstalled, its rear edge had not been neatly aligned with the adjacent bodywork. Also, in the rear edge of the door, there is a hole via which access is gained to the torx screw which secures the lock cylinder and external door handle. The circular adhesive patch which covers this hole had not been replaced in position. Rather than make another 300-km round trip to the dealership, I made the adjustments necessary to correct these shortcomings myself, making my own version of the special service tool from a length of thick wire. (And since then, I’ve had the car serviced elsewhere.)

    Now the lock on the front passenger door is playing up. I’ll probably try to repair this lock myself, but it will have to wait until I can manage without the car for several days, in case when I get the lock out I find I need to order replacement parts.

    Now I’ll come to the key point of this verbose post.

    When the lock in the rear door was replaced, I obtained the original for forensic examination to see if I could determine the cause of failure. Although I had not at that time seen your excellent description of how to dismantle the lock, I managed to do so. The fact that a faulty lock sometimes does respond to the remote is consistent with the problem arising from a poor or loose electrical connection, so that is what I was looking for. I found all the microswitches and the soldered connections on the printed-circuit board (PCB) were fine. But I believe I can add another possible cause to those listed in your posts.

    The electrical connections to the two servomotors are made via metal strips, the ends of which simply push into sockets on the motors. There is no latching mechanism, so it’s basically just friction which holds the strips in their sockets. For the larger of the two motors, I found this connection was fairly secure, but the smaller, silver-coloured, motor, was so loosely attached to its connection strips that it fell off the PCB when the latter was gently shaken. I’m convinced this was the dodgy connection responsible for the problem with the lock. I’m amazed that this type of connection was used in a situation subject to vibration and probably to some movement from the twisting torque of the motor. No doubt it saves a few cents on the assembly line compared to hard-wiring the motor, but it can cost the car’s owner several hundred dollars to fix.

    Inside the black plastic housing which encloses the electric module of the lock, a piece of foam-plastic adhesive tape had been placed so that when the two halves of the housing were fitted together this tape pressed down on the location where the connection strips enter the smaller motor. This suggests to me that a potentially insecure electrical connection to this motor was a known problem when the lock was assembled and that the foam tape was an attempt to fudge round it rather than go to the expense of re-engineering the system to provide a more robust arrangement.

    In an emergency situation, the inability to exit a car through a particular door could constitute a safety hazard, so I believe this makes it doubly remiss of VW not to have issued a recall to fix these locks at no expense to the car owners.

    I wonder how many repeat sales VW has lost as a result of this issue.
    Last edited by TSOHUWA; 11-03-2014 at 03:57 AM. Reason: Spelling error

  3. #23
    Junior Member
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    Apr 2014
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    Portugal
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    Help please.

    Hello hopefully get some tips from you.
    Much congratulations for the work done in post helped me a lot.
    first of all excuse my english I'm Portuguese and I am unsure what to do.
    My car is a Seat Ibiza, my like your lock.


    I'm with the door closed and can not open at all, but I already have access inside.

    from what I read in your tutorial:

    "Once you have the door handle off you Should be able to use the special tool 157 (or a screw driver) to move the lever to the RIGHT RED to unlock the car."

    This means that to access the screw marked with the red ball can unlock and remove the lock?


    I know my car is not a part of the forum but already Aondo research at two days on the subject without any answer: (

    Thanks for your time and your work.

    Cumps

  4. #24
    Junior Member
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    Jul 2014
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    brisbane
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    Hilux
    Name
    Bob
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    1

    2005 Golf V rhr door would not open from inside nor outside. Could hear the lock motor operating but still no good. I worked out the deadlock motor had failed in the lock position. VW take note this is an extreamly dangerous situation as one can not open the door at all. I used scan tool to cycle the lock but was still dead lock jammed. Removed the inner door trim, cut a hole through the inner door skin, drilled 2 large holes into the latch/lock, removed the main motor inserted a pick & pushed the deadlock lever into unlock & then pushed the latch to open door. Removed outer door skin & fitted new lock latch.

  5. #25
    Senior Member shakespeare's Avatar
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    Perth, WA
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    Variant Wolfie
    Name
    Chris
    Posts
    568

    Hey mate,

    I'm having the same issue with a Mk V Jetta, I just ordered one of these replacements which should fix the issue.

    http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/281385507002

    Might be easier than taking apart the faulty locking module and fixing it, anyway good luck!
    WLF127

  6. #26
    Junior Member
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    Mar 2015
    Location
    Hungary
    Name
    Akos Szilagyi
    Posts
    1

    Mk5 passenger front door stuck

    Need help!

    The lock mechanism on the passenger side of my Golf Mk5 showed signs of becoming dead, as it gave a few rattles extra after I used the remote and the other locks opened / closed. It suddenly gave up and I could not open the passenger side door in the front. To be able to replace the lock I needed to open the door which I managed by bonking the door from the outside (as suggested by a guy on youtube) while I was using the handle and the remote together, pressing open / close repeatedly after each other. I was happy thinking about finally being able to replace the lock, I ordered a replacement one from a shop, and started the work today. I managed to get the panel off, and the old lock out. After placing the new one in I heard no extra rattles when using the remote, so everything suggested I will be able to get the panel quickly back and voilá. I closed the door to test if everything works properly but then door did not open, neither from the inside, nor from the outside, no matter how hard I try to pull the wires. Interestingly now I have a door closed having access to the mechanical parts, I can push the levers around, but no luck as I have a deadlock on the door.

    Can you please let me know what I could do to unlock it, and why it still has issues with the new lock?

    Thanks

  7. #27
    Junior Member
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    Jul 2015
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    Australia
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    VW Caddy Maxi
    Name
    Tony Anagnostakis
    Posts
    1

    Hi thad,

    I have a Caddy Maxi VW van that Im having the same problem. Do you think the Fix is that same?

  8. #28
    Junior Member
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    Aug 2014
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    8

    Finally got around to replacing the locks on my 07 Jetta and couldn't seem to undo the m6 bolt. Might have even stripped the head! I put everything back (sadly without replacing anything) but now the central locking doesn't lock it.

  9. #29
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    usa
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  10. #30
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    Katty
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    BMV
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    Katty Woo
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