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Thread: Potential buyers beware - Scirocco R (CVR 36W) "Dealer executive" HA!

  1. #11
    Super Moderator Dub's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    R32 MKV

    Quote Originally Posted by bec View Post
    so what's the go on running in a new car these days? I'm getting a wolfie in a couple weeks, I've not owned a brand new car before, and I'm reading conflicting info on how to drive in the beginning. Any articles or threads here on the forum about it?
    By the time the car gets to you, it really is a conflicting decision on how to run it in. Strictly speaking an engine should be "run in" on the first 20kms or less, and the oil changed out. A practice that is used by people who build motors, but not on manufacturing. What any good motor builder is trying to achieve is good sealing, therefore good compression, therefore good longevity, and good power. Most cars undergo some kind of of test prior to delivery to the customer. By the time you get hold of the car with circa 15-20kms on the odometer at the dealer, the initial magical window that engine builders would have used is gone.

    Nevertheless, you can still assist by getting the car under load. This doesnt mean dragging the thing out to 5 million barp barp barp RPM. It means finding a steep hill, getting the car into a higher gear, and letting it labour up to really help that engine bed in. Then get some activity going through the RPM range after the oil is warm (20mins or so), low to mid rpm, low to high rpm, mid to high rpm, etc.

  2. #12
    Über Golfer stephen8512's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    2nd Car

    ^ some good info there.

    If you look in the very first post of my build there*click here*, you will see that my Golf R had 17.4kms on the clock when I picked it up from the dealers.
    There's no real hard or fast rule on how to run in a new car. As long as you make sure the car is warmed up properly before giving it a bit of stick (i.e temperatures are all at operating temps and not cold), I say just drive normally and give it the occasional red line. One rule I abide by is don't "baby" the car, i.e keeping revs under "X" rpm for the first 1000kms or whatever. Personally, for new cars with the technology being so good these days I believe this isn't really as relevant as it used to be.

    From personal experience, I tried to give a good amount of revs in each gear throughout the rev range, however, this doesn't mean just thrashing it. Varying the engine revs is what I did in each gear. On occasion, I would redline the car in manual mode and then let the car decelerate from redline back down. But honestly, most of the time I just drove it normally, giving it a redline or close to it every few days I drove the car (in my case, I drove the car every day back then so probably once every couple of days.) I probably did this until the first 500-600kms or so? Basically, one full tank worth of running in.

    I can say that my car was driven rather than babied and as a result, it made 160.1kw at all 4 wheels when stock when all other Golf R's who were at the dyno day were making around 154-157kw at all 4 wheels. Now, 3kw is nothign in terms of real world but just good to know that the engine was healthy and was making good figures
    Last edited by stephen8512; 14-09-2015 at 10:27 PM.
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  3. #13
    Senior Member CWR's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    MKVI .:R
    2nd Car
    Built Evo 8 (sold)

    What you want to do is a lot of engine braking in the ~3-6k rev range. Engine braking creates vacuum in the cylinders and helps the rings seat with what is left of the crosshatching of the cylinders from the factory honing. Bring the revs up, engine brake down, bring them up, engine brake down. Do it safely on a deserted as possible road as soon as you get the car.
    MY12 Golf.:R

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