Which sensors ? The standard VW ones ? We can get all types but for those I think techedge would be the best source here
Originally Posted by Jig
Ceramic coating in my opinion is a must for headers as its very close to everything else inside the engine bay. Dump pipes as well. As far as exhaust is concerned, its really up to you Ben because the exhaust sits under the car so the heat can't travel upwards and into your cabin at all. If you want to see how ceramic coating looks like, take a look at my headers on my MKV R32 build thread or the recent Heffner twin turbo at the Ramspeed page. You will see that its especially shiny.
Mark/Parso: How can i purchase these O2 sensors please. I apologise for the off topic.
"The main reason most people opt for the ceramic coating is to reduce the amount of heat that the downpipes emit during constant use (which has been noticed around the center console area), keeps under-hood temperatures to a minimum, and extends the life of the plastic components in the immediate vicinity of the downpipes. If you are not a very aggressive driver, then you do not necessarily need a ceramic coating. However, if you like to track the car or just drive aggressively, then the ceramic coating will help with the longevity of your downpipes. All in all, it is a smart idea."
Some more info....
The centerline of the tube has the hottest gases while along the wall you will find the "coolest" gases.
You want to maintain the highest average gas temperature to promote flow. Thus the reason for ceramic coatings and stainless steel.
With ceramic coating you want the inside and outside (especially for mild steel tubing) of the tubing coated. Having the inside coated will locate the "insulation wall" closer to the core and increase the average exhaust gas temperature in the tube. Stainless steel is better because its heat conduction properties are poor, therefore it insulates better.
I think its BS. How much cooler does it make it? Has anyone done back to back comparisons? Car cold to warm, heat measured? Same Temps on dyno etc etc. When i see this I will shutup. Im a mechanical engineer and have a trade. So i see how a theory like this works, in theory. Real life scenario's are different.
H8Rs gonna H8
I know what you mean though but it seems to work well in the subie scene so I can't see why it wont here. I'm still waiting for the donk to cool down ATM . I'll know if its make a difference once I eventually get hold of one to fit
Fark off. how long did that take? Not as long as expected. PICS NOW!!! Notice the difference.
OK not even close to finished
Its taken since 10:30 to get the turbo out and the actuator on an setup so lets call it 4 hours to get to that stage NOW I have to start putting it all back together but I can't do this till tomorrow cause we caught one of the outlets off the N75 on the firewall and snapped it off FARK !!!!!!
So I have about 4 hours to go and have to replace coolant and a complete oil change too
Are we going to do it on a customer car... nope I don't think its worth it in labour. I've conceded defeat today and am now eating a Vietnamese chicken roll with a grey import cherry cola to wash it down, pics in a sec when i get this camera hooked up
"I live my life a quarter mile at a time. Nothing else matters: not the wife, not the job, not the forum and all their bullshit. For those 12.329 seconds or less, I'm free"