Installing RS4 fuel return valve on FSI (R) engine

[Brick]

Has anyone done theirs yet? If so, do you install with the manifold in place or removed? Were any special tools required or recommended?

Thanks

[Rob32R]

Hey Cameron,
Have a read of these websites.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...rn-valve/page5

http://forums.fourtitude.com/showthr...rn-valve/page6

[Tarmac]

Remove the line going to the pump

remove t30 torx holding line to of manifold and one on the bottom right.

14mm crows foot to remove the line

17mm crows foot to remove the valve itself.

Install is reverse of removal

Can be done in about 10 minutes this way.

[Brick]

Thanks Rob and Ben. Looks like I will be off to get a couple of tools then.

Ben, I assume you need to reach under the manifold to change out the valve. Looks like it could be a tight squeeze.

I will try to run some fuel pressure logs tomorrow evening to see if I can identify a drop off in pressure, similar to what was posted on Rob's links above. Will also look at seeing if I can log the AFRs as well. Definitely running rich looking at the state of the tailpipes.

[Tarmac]

Well that answers my question on your build thread. lol

[Tarmac]

I read some where that another guy used a piece of hose to push over the valve to screw it in and out. So he only needed to crack it with a spanner then did the rest with the hose. Sounded weird but yeah. each to there own. You've got all the fuel and nowhere for it to go, no surprises if it is running rich. Need to lean that sucker out. e.i get it tuned properly. Dont boost it to much intill then. Well, you can. I wouldnt.

[Gogi]

Whatever you do, don't let the mechanics tell you it's a manifold off job!

I have done quite a few of these now without removing a thing and it's about a 40min job if working normally.

Basically you need to remove the engine cover, move the DV out of the way, undo the DV bracket from the intake manifold, Relieve the pressure in the fuel line, undo one of the fuel lines to the Pump, undo the PCV hose that runs down next to the fuel pump, using 14mm and 17mm flare nut spanners undo the fuel line to the valve and the valve itself and then reverse the procedure to install.

I used a claw pickup tool to hold the valve in place to do it up etc and also to pull it out of the tight confines underneath the intake runners.

If you have the tools and patience, it's not too hard but if you are going to get a mechanic to do it then do not pay them more than 1 hrs work!

[Tarmac]

KRA21E FTW

[Brick]

I better stick to the numbers game, could not get the fuel line nut to undo using a flange nut spanner. Just not sufficient gap between the intake runners to be able to turn the nut enough to pick up the next edge of the nut and keep turning, even if I reversed the spanner. Was able to crack the nut a fraction and that was all she wrote. Looks like will have to try a crow foot coming in from underneath, although that is going to be tight as well.

One thing I did notice was that the code on the existing valve was 060 130 757 (as best I could read, could have been 050 130 757) and the code on the new valve is 079 130 757. Makes me think that could already have a 130 bar valve in there. Does anyone who has done the change know if the codes correspond to the pressure settings?

[Tarmac]

hmmmmm got me stuffed.. KRA21E???................