Swalee, great DIY. The Haldex sounds like a must for me. I will be getting it later in the year and getting you to install.....thanks mate. Some great tips in this, it should be very useful.
Hi, Just thought Id add this DIY for the Haldex controller. I know Ian from Rennenhaus posted one some time ago when he had his MK5 R32, so i thought of update it a wee bit.
First thing, is I disconnected the battery( using a 10mm ring spanner ) . Couple of reasons is that I was removing the front seat and the haldex and I didnt want the ECU to send me all these shitty warning lights.
Removed the front seat, pretty easy slide the seat forward expose the spline nut, remove it and slide it all the way back and remove the rear spline sockets. Then remove the Heater/airbag/Seating wires.
I then lifted the rear seat ( didnt have to remove it fully ) by unclipping the ISO clips ( but not taking them out ), jerking each corner up, then pushing the seat back and up. I then attached a bungie cord to the underneath and around the headrest to keep it up. The reason I removed the seats was to give me a easier path to feed my cable.
Next I jacked the car on the front passenger side, as to reduce the loss of Haldex Fluid.( Drivers side if you a viewing this from the Americas or Europe )
I then went under the car and removed the fuel tank bracket bolts, so I could feed the cable. (13mm Socket, with extensions )
I then fed my data cable feeder through the gap in the top of the tank and it feed right beside the Haldex, try and follow the line of the other cable as it easier to pull through.
I taped the cable to the feeder and pulled it through from the top, pushing down on the tank as I went, try and pull as much as you can so as not to have too much cable around the area of the Haldex.
I then removed the Haldex with my Bike spanner, (NOTE: you can buy a spanner like this at Bunnings Tool Shop area, called a CRAFTECH, cost about 17 dollars )that had a hex bolt attachment, this was the most important tool as it was perfect for removing the hex bolts. Then after that removed the Haldex control unit and Throttle valve then quickly put the new Throttle valve (only ) to stop the very slow loss of oil.
I attached the cables to the New Control unit (NOTE: I zippy tied the control unit and sealing plate so it was easy to attach ) then pushed the control unit onto the throttle valve and housing, making sure the pins were lined up.Finger tightened the Hex bolts then removed the zippy tie and tightened fully secure. This took a total of 12 minutes, Ive heard people taking ages for this and I can only assume that they were using a Allen Key which would take ages.
This is when I had a cup of tea and a Pie.
When I came back I pulled the cable through as tight as I could then went under and Zippy tied them together and attached the tank bolts back on, remembering they were bloody tight. The dropped the car off the jacks.
Once done I worked on closing the tank cover on.
then it was a simple case of feeding the cable under the carpet.
Then running it under the Dash and below the steering wheel.
I then placed the seats back in and attached the cables then clamped on the battery, then tested the Haldex. On initial drive I had a ESP error but after 5 minutes it disappeared.
As for the Haldex I haven't had alot of time to test it, but Ill know when I get onto the track. On first run down some twisty roads at full throttle you car feel the car push you around the corner, and very very little understeer.
How easy was it....well if 1 was replacing a wheel and 10 was putting in a Big Turbo ( not naming any names, Ben), Id rate it a 4.5, if your competent and have the tools, its easy. I completed it in about 2 hours, with 3 tea breaks, 20 minutes of Sons of Guns and a pie, all within the 3 hour time limit my wife gives me for working on my car, anything over and I'm in the shit.
Oh, only bad thing was the sticker they gave you was absolute crap, fell off after 10 minutes....HPA.....we pay all that money and that happens.....really.
Last edited by swalee; 28-04-2012 at 01:53 PM. Reason: Tool appropriation
MY10 RB GolfR 4 Dr HPA Stage 2 DSG,Eurojet Intercooler,APR Fuel Pump/RS4 Rail, VWR brakes ,BCS carbon Intake,036 rear end links, Milltek RES full Exhaust, OZ Alleggerita HLT, DNA Stage 3, KW DCC ECU and a Haldex Controller in a Pear tree
A Madman, telling a Madman he's a Madman.......that's mad!.
Swalee, great DIY. The Haldex sounds like a must for me. I will be getting it later in the year and getting you to install.....thanks mate. Some great tips in this, it should be very useful.
Shit . Shit. Shit........ I'll be sick that day, Ben. Should ave kept this to myself.
MY10 RB GolfR 4 Dr HPA Stage 2 DSG,Eurojet Intercooler,APR Fuel Pump/RS4 Rail, VWR brakes ,BCS carbon Intake,036 rear end links, Milltek RES full Exhaust, OZ Alleggerita HLT, DNA Stage 3, KW DCC ECU and a Haldex Controller in a Pear tree
A Madman, telling a Madman he's a Madman.......that's mad!.
works best on the track, enjoy![]()
Previous .:R32 | Build Thread
Current MY13 HSV Maloo | 430HP / 550Nm
Im really interested in getting into your car swalee. It seems like a must have, especially with my GTX on. Wont be able to do it until later in the year but its on the list.
How about I put your turbo into my car and we will give it a go.
MY10 RB GolfR 4 Dr HPA Stage 2 DSG,Eurojet Intercooler,APR Fuel Pump/RS4 Rail, VWR brakes ,BCS carbon Intake,036 rear end links, Milltek RES full Exhaust, OZ Alleggerita HLT, DNA Stage 3, KW DCC ECU and a Haldex Controller in a Pear tree
A Madman, telling a Madman he's a Madman.......that's mad!.
Job well done mate. For all us rookies out there,can u give a brief explanation as to what the haldex controller does,and is it mostly for track use? I'm always looking at wasting good earned money on something( usually on the wife),so this might be something I might fit at the end of the year....
By the way,my noisy suspension has yet to return![]()
MY11.5 GOLF R | DSG | ACC | RECARO | SUNROOF | BLUTOOTH | MDI | RVC |
VIEZU TUNE | TURBOXS DOWNPIPE | MTM CATBACK | APR INTERCOOLER | HPFP FUEL PUMP | UNIBRACE UB | H&R SWAYBARS | KW DDC COILOVERS | SUPERPRO ALLOY ARMS | WHITELINE BUMP STEER KIT | HPA DOGBONE MOUNT | VOLK VRG2 | NEUSPEED CHARGE DISCHARGE PIPES
REVOZPORT CARBON GRILL & MIRROR COVERS | GARAGE VARY CARBON DIFFUSER| OKADA COILS | VWR CAI| ALCON 4 POT EXTREME KIT| COMPETITION HALDEX |
Yeah swalee no probs, doing the turbo should be a breeze the second time round...........
Grorge the haldex unit by HPA replaces the factory unit. You can see it all on the HPA website. But basically our cars are mostly front wheel drive, only when the system detects the front is losing too much traction it will then activate more power to be transfered to the real wheels and help push the car safely around the corner etc. The upgraded unit allows us to adjust the settings between 3 modes. Race/Sport mode basically has the rear wheels always in use and stops understeer and helps push the car. It becomes a true AWD car if you like. It also makes the delay in when the car senses it is losing traction in the front very very small. So it reacts a lot quiker to minimize understeer.
You really feel yourself being pushed through the corner with the unit. Approx $1100.
Thats a brief run down anyway.
George, So the Haldex works like this. All your four wheels turn due to the 4WD, but the torque doesn't, under easy normal conditions is mostly at the front, as soon as the there is slippage or hard acceleration the torque shifts to the rear, not all of it mind you, it varies. To do this is under the normal Haldex, you have to give it a fair bit of welly, alot, for it to transfer. ( Please refer to Bens asseveration of his Traction failure, with his Big Turbo on the GTG ).
Now all the HPA Haldex controller does is give it a more sensitive approach ( like me ). This means that when you give it some, the transfer happens quicker with less effort, especially in race mode, so when your on a track or powering around Mt Cootha, you feel it push you round the corner....its awesome. Driving round town normal, you feel nothing.
But then I could be talking shit, but this and the HPA DSG tune, the car is better allround,
MY10 RB GolfR 4 Dr HPA Stage 2 DSG,Eurojet Intercooler,APR Fuel Pump/RS4 Rail, VWR brakes ,BCS carbon Intake,036 rear end links, Milltek RES full Exhaust, OZ Alleggerita HLT, DNA Stage 3, KW DCC ECU and a Haldex Controller in a Pear tree
A Madman, telling a Madman he's a Madman.......that's mad!.
oops sorry as what Ben said Kinda,...But I said it better.
MY10 RB GolfR 4 Dr HPA Stage 2 DSG,Eurojet Intercooler,APR Fuel Pump/RS4 Rail, VWR brakes ,BCS carbon Intake,036 rear end links, Milltek RES full Exhaust, OZ Alleggerita HLT, DNA Stage 3, KW DCC ECU and a Haldex Controller in a Pear tree
A Madman, telling a Madman he's a Madman.......that's mad!.